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The Crow's Nest
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The Dingy 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 5/97
Page Views: 615
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jun 18, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Short and stout
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

For a VERY short route The Dingy packs quite a punch. You can clip the first bolt from the ledge if you are even halfway tall but when you get to the second and last bolt you can clip it from a great hold and just one very tricky and big move keeps you from the anchors. The move involves lots of technique and a little power as well. Throw for the top, it's good.


Location 

The far left route at the crag. As you walk left look for the short route. If you fall to your doom you went too far.


Protection 

2 bolts to a set of anchors.



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By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
May 26, 2009

With the use of a very small crimp, this can be climbed statically without throwing for the lip. The climb would also make for a really good V3/4 boulder problem if blowing the crux didn't mean falling to your death.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 30, 2012

Fun little problem. I pissed and moaned, swearing this couldn't be 11. Then I noticed small crimps on the angling upper face. The way Adam (5'6") and I (6'++) did it was both static and balancy. After all of our whining, this was a very enjoyable and rewarding (albeit short) climb.

By Adam Conroy
From: Cambridge, MA
Apr 30, 2012

Kind of love this climb. If there were a good place for mats and it wasn't on the edge of a cliff face this would make for a spectacular (V4ish?) boulder problem. It's one of those climbs where you are totally confused while you play around on it and then you figure out how you're going to send it and it's so rewarding and uncontrived when it just "clicks."

By S. Neoh
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

A lot of fun albeit crimpy if one were to do it all statically (I too am 5'6"). Just wish it was 60 feet longer! Mark has a great eye for good climbs.