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Castle Dome - 4th class route T 
Dike Route (aka East Face), The T 
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The Dike Route (aka East Face) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 1100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: John Bald et al.
Page Views: 3,340
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on May 23, 2005

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Dike route as seen from top of Six Toe


The route climbs on or near a dike for 1100 feet of well featured face climbing. Climbing is sustained continuous 5.8 with many 5.9 sections and a few short 5.10 cruxes. Expect 20 to 30 foot runouts on 5.8 ground with more protection available during the harder stretches.The route is in the sun in the morning and goes into shade in the mid afternoon. The descent does not return to the base of the route. We found the Laird Davis guidebook description and topo accurate and easy to follow.

We were amazed at the continuous quality of this route; beautiful, relentlessly fun climbing for 900+ feet. Only the last pitch eases off to a nice summit scramble. We did not see any other people all day.


2 or 3 old bolts on most pitches. Bolted anchors on about half of the pitches. The crux bolt appears newer. Standard rack focusing on small to medium nuts and TCU's, 8-10 runners.

Photos of The Dike Route (aka East Face) Slideshow Add Photo
A good view of the Southeastern face of Castle Dom...
BETA PHOTO: A good view of the Southeastern face of Castle Dom...
after the crux roof pull
after the crux roof pull

Comments on The Dike Route (aka East Face) Add Comment
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By john bald
Sep 14, 2006

One of the best in the crags! Did the fa long ago.
By Matthew Geyer
Nov 29, 2007

John, I was curious if you had any more beta or pictures for the Dike Route? Is a guide book for the area that you suggest? Thanks.
By john bald
Nov 6, 2008

Rarely check this site, but ran into alpineaddict as having current info on new routes. Happy hunting...........John
By Rick D
From: Reno, NV
Jun 1, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R

Fun climb. Really long day. We originally planned to do this then climb Shasta the next day. Needless to say, Shasta got pushed back a day.

We approached by the rock creek trail. Easy hiking for like two miles, then uphill bushwacking and fourth class scrambling.

Every pitch except for maybe the fith felt run out. And the run out's are typically on small cams or nuts or old lepper hangers. Get ready for some really creative placements (I slung a few horns for sure.)

The roof at the start of the third pitch felt really insecure and harder than 10d. Don't know if something has broken or not. By comparison, the roof on the 5'th pitch felt physically way easier than the first one (felt 10d) but was mentally challenging. Just don't think about the single bolt that is protecting your fall.

Every anchor has two bolts except for the top's of pitch's 6 and 7. The topo we were using says that there are two bolts at top of the 5.9+ sixth pitch, 110' above the last anchor. We never found the bolts and set up a trad anchor. If you climb any higher than this, you will be hard press to find anywhere to set an anchor.

We decended by heading south down the dome. Some sketchy fourth class through a water trough will eventually bring you to the trail.
By CrimperE6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Oct 16, 2014

how hard is it to mark a trail to the crag? - wasted 1hr getting lost.. Dont follow the cairned trail round to the right of the face, we eventually followed the dry river bed direct to hit the crag at the LHS

E3/4 6a for the UK crew. The guide mentioning funky gear placements just means know how to use wires
5th pitch has no bolted anchor, so i went to 65m out and after a loose block, created a trad belay. Another 65m took me to the top

Be careful on the descent, really dangerous, esp if dark and windy and your girlfriend has all cramped up!. Needs abseil rings, who wants to down climb 5.4! If in doubt abseil with 2x70s will get u out of trouble after the inital bit of gullys.

Long amazing day out, go do it
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