|Type:||Trad, 8 pitches, 1100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||John Bald et al.|
|Submitted By:||Anonymous Coward on May 23, 2005|
|Comments on the Dike Route||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By john bald
Sep 14, 2006
|One of the best in the crags! Did the fa long ago.|
By Matthew Geyer
Nov 29, 2007
|John, I was curious if you had any more beta or pictures for the Dike Route? Is a guide book for the area that you suggest? Thanks.|
By john bald
Nov 6, 2008
|Rarely check this site, but ran into alpineaddict as having current info on new routes. Happy hunting...........John|
By Rick D
From: Reno, NV
Jun 1, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fun climb. Really long day. We originally planned to do this then climb Shasta the next day. Needless to say, Shasta got pushed back a day.
We approached by the rock creek trail. Easy hiking for like two miles, then uphill bushwacking and fourth class scrambling.
Every pitch except for maybe the fith felt run out. And the run out's are typically on small cams or nuts or old lepper hangers. Get ready for some really creative placements (I slung a few horns for sure.)
The roof at the start of the third pitch felt really insecure and harder than 10d. Don't know if something has broken or not. By comparison, the roof on the 5'th pitch felt physically way easier than the first one (felt 10d) but was mentally challenging. Just don't think about the single bolt that is protecting your fall.
Every anchor has two bolts except for the top's of pitch's 6 and 7. The topo we were using says that there are two bolts at top of the 5.9+ sixth pitch, 110' above the last anchor. We never found the bolts and set up a trad anchor. If you climb any higher than this, you will be hard press to find anywhere to set an anchor.
We decended by heading south down the dome. Some sketchy fourth class through a water trough will eventually bring you to the trail.