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Zoo Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Flush, The TR 
Body Suit T 
Closed Heimer T 
Conflict In Terms T,TR 
Crazy Alice T 
Critical Mass T,TR 
Dihedral, The T,TR 
Dr. Coolhead T,TR 
Extended Altar Call T 
Fantasy Roof T,TR 
Flying Nun Variation T 
Flying Nun, The T 
Knuckle Sandwich T 
Larin Has Balls T 
Leap Frog T,TR 
Little Roof (aka Small Roof) T 
Masters of Reality T 
McBride's Mind T 
No Stone Unturned T,TR 
Resurrection Factor T 
Richard Pryor Route T 
Scrotum Roof T,TR 
Shake and Bake T 
Side Saddle T,TR 
Slap Roof T 
Sloth T 
Squeeze Play T,TR 
Straight Face TR 
Sundown Dihedral T,TR 
Sweet Jesus T,TR 
Time the Avenger TR 
Too Much Fun T 
Triple Decker T 
Unfinished Piece, The T,TR 
Yellow Corner T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Dihedral 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 4,158
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Sep 18, 2006

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Another shot of The Dihedral from the Aerial Antic...

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb ledge to ledge, great stances abound. Plenty of backstep opportunities and no hands rests/placements. This route gets greasy, so it can easily psyche you out. The crux is moving under the roof, which looks intimidating from the ground but all the positive holds are solid making this thing a blast for anyone. Only downside, is you can't get a clean fall with so many ledges.

Location 

The Left most route on the main wall. The obvious Dihedral

Protection 

Big gear down low and normal stuff up top. Use a long runner under the roof to reduce rope drag.


Photos of The Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing "The Dihedral," Wichita Wildlif...
Climbing "The Dihedral," Wichita Wildlif...
Chris finds a resting place on the Dihedral.  Mar ...
Chris finds a resting place on the Dihedral. Mar ...
Unknown climber on The Dihedral.
Unknown climber on The Dihedral.
Looking across the main face.  The most notable li...
Looking across the main face. The most notable li...
About half way up The Dihedral.
About half way up The Dihedral.
Mike with the big cams in tow.  The Dihedral Memor...
Mike with the big cams in tow. The Dihedral Memor...
Chris' first lead.  WMWR, Zoo Wall, The Dihedral 5...
Chris' first lead. WMWR, Zoo Wall, The Dihedral 5...
The Dihedral on Zoo Wall.
The Dihedral on Zoo Wall.

Comments on The Dihedral Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 3, 2014
By Andrew Tower
From: Golden, CO
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

the best? i dunno man, the whole thing is slick as snot and I don't think i'd put beginning leaders on it just because of it.
By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 1, 2007

Although I gave this route a 4 star rating, it is mostly for historic value. Don't be fooled into thinking that this route is the best 5.6 in Oklahoma, let alone the nation. In fact, here is a list of better 5.6's that first time leaders can be psyched on:

Yee Haw; Upper Mt. Scott (3 freaking star route for sure)
Side Saddle: Zoo Wall left
Great Expectations; Elk Slab
Large Corner Girdle; Lichen Wall

Get out and do these routes before you slide off the Dihedral grease-fest!
By furrymurry
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 8, 2007

I've never heard anyone call it the best 5.6 in the state. All the same, not a terrible climb, but the rest of the climbs on that face are much better.
By CalebSimpson
Feb 4, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Grease fest? I don't recall this route being slick at all. Climbed it twice without any problems. Second time was on TR hauling up as fast as I could to photograph a climber on Crazy Alice. I have heard this is more of a "Level 2" newbie leader climb though, but mostly because of the ledge and use of runners.
By Arnold Braker
From: golden, co
Mar 10, 2008

honestly, this route blows like gums mcgee. It's slick, it's wide, and it's awkward at the bottem. Yuck. Great Expectations is a helluva lot more fun.

If this is the best 5.6 in the nation, American route developers have some serious work to do.
By CalebSimpson
Dec 20, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great classic route. Rating is more around 5.7 now because a lot of moves are polished and the move coming out of the roof is more of a 5.7 move as well. Done this as a second and on lead.

Route can give new leaders a run for their money, there is potential to fall on ledges all the way up, so be careful when protecting. It doesn't hurt to have a #4 on this route either, maybe even two. I think I only placed one though.
By Stan Jones
From: Benbrook, TX
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Felt like 5.7 to me. Similar difficulty to Yellow Corner, and harder than the other 5.6's in the Narrows due to being off-width and slick.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Oct 31, 2011

Point taken on this not being anywhere close to the best state or even area... I have no idea where I'd think I read that from? Great alternative choices for other routes. Now I must contest the assertion that it's a 5.7, because it has jugs the whole way, a no hands stance every 8-10 feet, the crux is all jugs, slick rock isn't a problem given all the back step opportunities.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Oct 31, 2011

I knew I read it somewhere.... "The Dihedral is one of the best 5.6 climb in the southern U.S." - Chuck Lohn author of "The Oklahoma Climber's Guide
By JeffL
From: Salt Lake City
Mar 27, 2013

Felt like 5.7+ to me, falls were not clean as mentioned above. It's not really a crack climb, I used more liebacking and face climbing. I'd highly recommend Crazy Alice over this climb if you feel confident at 5.8 and are looking to jam
By C. Archibald
Feb 17, 2014

I finally braved the crowds at zoo wall and led this thing. The "grease fest" comments on here had me a little worried! The rock on this route is certainly more slick than anything at Crab Eyes, for example, but IMO it's no where near a "grease fest." The route is fun and easy. I led Crazy Alice the same day. Dihedral is 2 grades easier in my opinion...solid 5.6. There are good stances throughout and great gear. New leaders should not be discouraged. My buddy did it yesterday as his 3rd trad lead ever.

I led this route and then climbed past the anchor to finish on The Flying Nun. That made for a great route with an exciting exit.
By DGraham
Aug 3, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I don't know what people are talking about, this is a Great route! Is has aesthetic looks to it, great and easy protection! the only thing was it was a little greasy from climbing shoes and with all the ledges there was barely any room for clean falls which would make it a much more scary route if it wasn't for all the enormous hand holds and incredible no-hands-rest stances which make protecting this climb very manageable. enjoy it for what it is, not what you expect it to be.