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The Dick

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Project TR 
Schu Horn TR 

The Dick  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 1,286
Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Jul 9, 2009
Forecast:
Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
Clear
50° | 32°
Partly Cloudy
56° | 40°
Chance of Rain
51° | 45°
Partly Cloudy
62° | 45°
Clear
65° | 42°
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BETA PHOTO: Front of the formation

Description 

Most overhanging piece of rock (that isn't a Boulder Problem) in the park. Mainly dry in the rain. A few routes are on it with a few variations of these routes

Getting There 

Above Birthday Rocks. Go to the top of Birthday Crack and look behind you, can't miss it. TR is difficult to set, there are some pieces in a boulder leaning up against the tower on the back side and some more way back on a short wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.7 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Dick
Schu, pulling onto the big ledge.

Schu Horn 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : The Dick
Starts on the left side of the tower, traverses right to good ledges, then straight up pulling onto the big ledge, then a couple of face moves to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of The Dick Slideshow Add Photo
Whoa! That IS overhanging! For DL anyway.
BETA PHOTO: Whoa! That IS overhanging! For DL anyway.
Warming up.
Warming up.

Comments on The Dick Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 26, 2011
By Tradoholic
Jul 9, 2009
Has this area been named before? I named it after Vinny's clay hold company for shameless promotion.
There are two rusty bolts sans hangers and one rusty piton near the bottom but they look like they were for aid practice.
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Jul 9, 2009
Jay Knower was calling it "The Dick" last weekend.

And yeah it was used for CMC aid practice.
By EB
From: Winona
Jul 9, 2009
Nice, there are a number of classic mini routes; that is routes that are definately in the great and greatly missed Bachar zone 2-3. There is one that definately deserves more attention, the Best Bulge 5.12, put up by Eric Z in between horse rampart and squirrel tower(?). Steep and cool! Keep up the hunting and keep gettin' after it boys!
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Dec 8, 2009
While the name may not be classy, it is the only moniker I have ever heard attached to this formation. I have decided to use the name for historical purposes. If some old-schoolers have heard it called by a different name, please post up.
By Tradoholic
Dec 8, 2009
C'mon Jay! "NU Tower" is definitely better than "The Dick", help a bro out!
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Dec 8, 2009
I'd have to say "The Dick" is way better than "NU Tower"
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Dec 8, 2009
I think the Phallus is better than both. Phallus. What a funny word. But I guess history trumps funny.
By Tradoholic
Dec 8, 2009
It seems like a pretty good site for people to promote themselves. So, why not a hold company?
By Tradoholic
Dec 8, 2009
Yep, Steve, it's REAL big! Or was that his balls? I can't recall...
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Dec 11, 2009
Are we going to have to rename "Big Bud" "Bushmills" and "Kingsbury Cruise"?

Ya know, you call it what you call it. Either other people know what you are saying, or history forgets what you were yacking about.
By Tom Petraitis
From: Evanston, IL
Sep 17, 2010
I've been looking at this tower for a few weeks. What line or lines are being explored? And, don't you need to trad up the back side to set up a TR?
By Tradoholic
Sep 17, 2010
Tom, we were attempting the left side of the overhanging face with very little luck. The right crack to ledge is "Shu Horn".

I did a sketchy solo to the top to set TR but the gear was actually on the wall behind it!
By Tom Petraitis
From: Evanston, IL
Sep 21, 2010
Nick you are one crazy mf! Why not just lead Shu Horn and set an anchor??
By Tradoholic
Apr 25, 2011
Jay, I find the name "The Dick" degrading and offensive to men. Please change it.

If I can't call some FIB a "pussy" on MP how can we, as gentleman, call this "The Dick". How uncouth!
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 25, 2011
Nick, you always have to be 'that guy', don't you. Funny. Shall I change it to the Phallus in the Talus? That was pretty damn funny.

Pretty sure Jay is out climbing his latest 5.14 project unlike the rest of us wanking on line.

PS. As your doomsday approaches, we should come up with a time you and Riley come over and the girls can talk baby stuff, and we can throw a few back and load your purple jeep up with baby schwag that we'll (hopefully) never need again.
By Tradoholic
Apr 26, 2011
"Phallus in the Talus" will do ;)

Doomsday?!?!? I'm pretty excited. I'm told it's a "magical" day, not a doomsday. Only a few years until she will be able to belay!
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 26, 2011
Might have been magical if I could remember any of it. Always happens at like 3am. I tried to sleep through the first one, then I hear this voice in my dream, "Hun are you going to just sleep right through this!??!" Turns out it was not a voice from my dream...

You are correct about the belay slave though. Can't wait for that.