Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Dick

Select Route:
Project TR 
Schu Horn TR 

The Dick 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 1,270
Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Jul 9, 2009
Forecast:
Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
Partly Cloudy
74° | 58°
Chance of Rain
69° | 59°
Thunderstorm
83° | 65°
Thunderstorm
75° | 60°
Partly Cloudy
79° | 66°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
BETA PHOTO: Front of the formation

Description 

Most overhanging piece of rock (that isn't a Boulder Problem) in the park. Mainly dry in the rain. A few routes are on it with a few variations of these routes


Getting There 

Above Birthday Rocks. Go to the top of Birthday Crack and look behind you, can't miss it. TR is difficult to set, there are some pieces in a boulder leaning up against the tower on the back side and some more way back on a short wall.


Climbing Season


2 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Dick
Schu, pulling onto the big ledge.

Schu Horn 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : The Dick
Starts on the left side of the tower, traverses right to good ledges, then straight up pulling onto the big ledge, then a couple of face moves to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of The Dick Slideshow Add Photo
Whoa! That IS overhanging! For DL anyway.
BETA PHOTO: Whoa! That IS overhanging! For DL anyway.
Warming up.
Warming up.
Comments on The Dick Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 26, 2011
By Tradoholic
Jul 9, 2009

Has this area been named before? I named it after Vinny's clay hold company for shameless promotion.
There are two rusty bolts sans hangers and one rusty piton near the bottom but they look like they were for aid practice.

By Paul Campbell
From: Pewaukee, WI
Jul 9, 2009

Jay Knower was calling it "The Dick" last weekend.

And yeah it was used for CMC aid practice.

By EB
From: Winona
Jul 9, 2009

Nice, there are a number of classic mini routes; that is routes that are definately in the great and greatly missed Bachar zone 2-3. There is one that definately deserves more attention, the Best Bulge 5.12, put up by Eric Z in between horse rampart and squirrel tower(?). Steep and cool! Keep up the hunting and keep gettin' after it boys!

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Dec 8, 2009

While the name may not be classy, it is the only moniker I have ever heard attached to this formation. I have decided to use the name for historical purposes. If some old-schoolers have heard it called by a different name, please post up.

By Tradoholic
Dec 8, 2009

C'mon Jay! "NU Tower" is definitely better than "The Dick", help a bro out!

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Dec 8, 2009

I'd have to say "The Dick" is way better than "NU Tower"

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Dec 8, 2009

I think the Phallus is better than both. Phallus. What a funny word. But I guess history trumps funny.

By Tradoholic
Dec 8, 2009

It seems like a pretty good site for people to promote themselves. So, why not a hold company?

By Tradoholic
Dec 8, 2009

Yep, Steve, it's REAL big! Or was that his balls? I can't recall...

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Dec 11, 2009

Are we going to have to rename "Big Bud" "Bushmills" and "Kingsbury Cruise"?

Ya know, you call it what you call it. Either other people know what you are saying, or history forgets what you were yacking about.

By Tom Petraitis
From: Evanston, IL
Sep 17, 2010

I've been looking at this tower for a few weeks. What line or lines are being explored? And, don't you need to trad up the back side to set up a TR?

By Tradoholic
Sep 17, 2010

Tom, we were attempting the left side of the overhanging face with very little luck. The right crack to ledge is "Shu Horn".

I did a sketchy solo to the top to set TR but the gear was actually on the wall behind it!

By Tom Petraitis
From: Evanston, IL
Sep 21, 2010

Nick you are one crazy mf! Why not just lead Shu Horn and set an anchor??

By Tradoholic
Apr 25, 2011

Jay, I find the name "The Dick" degrading and offensive to men. Please change it.

If I can't call some FIB a "pussy" on MP how can we, as gentleman, call this "The Dick". How uncouth!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 25, 2011

Nick, you always have to be 'that guy', don't you. Funny. Shall I change it to the Phallus in the Talus? That was pretty damn funny.

Pretty sure Jay is out climbing his latest 5.14 project unlike the rest of us wanking on line.

PS. As your doomsday approaches, we should come up with a time you and Riley come over and the girls can talk baby stuff, and we can throw a few back and load your purple jeep up with baby schwag that we'll (hopefully) never need again.

By Tradoholic
Apr 26, 2011

"Phallus in the Talus" will do ;)

Doomsday?!?!? I'm pretty excited. I'm told it's a "magical" day, not a doomsday. Only a few years until she will be able to belay!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 26, 2011

Might have been magical if I could remember any of it. Always happens at like 3am. I tried to sleep through the first one, then I hear this voice in my dream, "Hun are you going to just sleep right through this!??!" Turns out it was not a voice from my dream...

You are correct about the belay slave though. Can't wait for that.