The Diamond / Toto Buttress
This is one of the most prominent pieces of stone Archangel Valley. from base to peak, the Diamond is nearly 600 ft in height and contains one of Hatcher's most classic lines, Toto (5.10, Grade III). Along with Toto, there are various other stellar lines here, including Festoon (5.9+) Ruby Shoes (5.7) and Grit Your Teeth (5.10).
Summiting Toto provides breathtaking views across Archangel and Fairangel Gap. From the summit of Toto, it is possible to continue along the ridge through class 4 and moderate class 5 terrain, to climb the pinnacle.
It is important to note that the base of the diamond is marked by a memorial plaque for Steve Garvey, one of the most prolific and dedicated climbers the state of Alaska has ever seen.
Drive down Archangel Rd. till you reach an obvious green out house, looking right at the diamond
Climbing Season For the Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing area.
Weather station 15.7 miles from here
10 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Diamond
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Diamond:
Ruby Shoes 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Festoon 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Toto 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 6 pitches
Featured Route For The Diamond
Toto to the Pinnacle link up 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b AK
: Anchorage & South Central A...
: ... : The Diamond
To start this classic link-up, first climb Toto. My suggestion if it’s not wet is to simul climb all the way to the base of the 5.9 dihedral, apx 120 meters. Climb the 5.9 corner, then for the next pitch go out right and clip that funny bolt (this variation is not in the guidebook) this pitch is a fast way to go. Next, climb the choss to the top of Toto. Next, climb the right side of the ridge until you find your self at the top of the Green Gully. Climb the first pitch of Rebecca’s Roof to the ...[more] Browse More Classics in AK
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Richard Shore
Jun 29, 2013
Sunny only until early afternoon, not all day.