Climb the far left hand crack to a stance on the right face, then "wrassle" your way up into a v notch/off-width nightmare (Yosemite style), keep squirming your way to a rest. Continue up the dihedral/flake to another rest on a big block. You are now on top of the sling nest where the two variations finish and looking up at more "wrassling" in another v notch. Okay, so now, gear, smear on crappy feet and finger lock your way to a hand jam. Gear. And continue to the fixed hex and the top. And don't forget the occasional back/butt smear.
The bolt is no more.
There are two additional starts to the right...one is 5.8, the other 5.9. These both end at slings and biners about 60 feet up.
Walk around the corner from Flying Frog to a large right-angling dihedral.
Trad. Fixed hex and sling with biner at the top.
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 20, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
This is a good pitch, not quite on par with the classics, but well worth doing. I did the normal start and thought it was way light for 10d, 10b is more like it. Protects well, so jump on it.
|By jeep gaskin|
Aug 10, 2010
try this. take whichever start you want and climb until the crack necks down and belay. it's about 100 feet. look left. there is a flake with thin tips leading to a corner. climb that. go up the corner, out the blocky roof and exit onto the face. short, but exposed and excellent.