Follow the obvious crack/chimney system that starts in the center of the face and trends right. When the chimney gains the East Ridge, there are several 1-2 pitch options to finish the route at the (false) summit.
Follow descent information for the South Face.
Standard Sierra Alpine Rack
Joe, leading the nice fourth pitch of the Diagonal...
BETA PHOTO: The actual start of the first pitch of the Diagona...
BETA PHOTO: The start of the Diagonal Route.
Joe on the top-notch wide corner crack on the fals...
Sep 30, 2013
your pic of the start of diagonal route does not correspond to the dotted topo overlay. My guess is the overlay is correct as it is a diagonal "chimney".
Attempted this route last month and started 100 feet left of the close up pic at the base of a large tree, not at the start shown on the dotted overlay. This start looked cleaner and more fun than the chimney and gained a sandy ledge where it met up with the chimney start shown in the close up pic. We went up a vegetated/kitty litter corner second pitch, then left into a 3rd class gully which led into a loose easy 3rd pitch 5th class gully which gained the east ridge. Then a short, awesome 5.7 finger crack up to a bench then up to a notch on the left side of the east facing summit block.
Rain hit and we bailed with a rap then downclimb to the far lookers right side of the overhangs near the east ridge. There is a stuck rope in one of the gullies. We swung over a ridge right of this gully to do a downlead then 2 more single rope raps.
Is the top out on the clean south face or on the summit block arÍte??
|By Chris S|
Oct 1, 2013
You could be right - the only other possible crack/chimney system is to the right of the overlay. I am confident that the overlay photo is correct, based on the route description given in Secor's guide and my own experience. I think the original route followed the easiest line, traversing back across the south face just below the summit.
To descend, head northwest along the ridge towards the slope and notch - not eastwards! Once you're on sandy ground, descend west and south around the headwall (towards upper boy scout lake) until you're below the formation.
|By Richard Shore|
Jun 16, 2014
A fun and quick route with a spectacular and airy summit pinnacle. Instead of following the ugly class 3 gully up and right towards the east ridge, we climbed directly up the beautiful golden face (mid-5th, good rock and climbing) and then traversed off right towards the ridge beneath a steep and grainy-looking LF corner crack. Some very exposed moves on the final ridge gaining the free-standing summit.
|By Chris D|
From: the couch
Jun 25, 2014
Wish I'd caught Richard's comment above before we went up there this past weekend! The third pitch is indeed a loose third class gully. Checked out the rock on the face to the left of the gully, but not until I was too far up the gully to get on it. Looked like a much nicer option. There looks like there's a lot of route potential on this formation.
The first three pitches are pretty crummy, but after the third pitch the rock quality improves dramatically, as does the climbing. From the top of the third class gully, head left up a wide crack to a short fun lieback, up a short handcrack to a ledge where you're presented with a couple of really beautiful splitter cracks. One zig-zags, the other goes straight up a corner and widens from hands to rattly fists as the angle eases off slightly. I've posted a topo of our route.
We didn't go to the detached summit, traversing slightly up and hard left from the top of the false summit. This, followed by some downclimbing and scrambling will get you to the talus field that descends back to upper boy scout lake.
If you're planning to add this to a trip that includes one of the long classics in the area, do this first. Would probably be a little bit of a letdown to follow up something like Fishhook Arete with this route.
Posted some photos above, and many more here.