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 ADVANCED
Left End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aileron Roll S 
Airway Arete S 
Diablo Cruiser, The T 
Early Arete S 
Humbolt S 
Rock n Road T 
Rope Burn in Hell S 
Schmeming S 
Two Wheel Drive S 
Up To Bat T 

The Diablo Cruiser 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kisiel and Newell
Page Views: 503
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Aug 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This is the first crack system to the right of Two Wheel Drive. It starts on a blocky slab to some thin hands and then continues up a ramped dihedral with a vasicular hands section
The crux is at the exit out of a painful hands dihedral that slightly kicks back at the top.

Location 

Same as for Diablo/Early Wall, and right to the right of Two Wheel Drive.

Protection 

Camming units from 1/2" to 3.5", medium to large stoppers, and a 9 or 10 hex to protect the moves up onto the slab. A good selection of trad runners. Walk off the top, or access the Two Wheel Drive Anchors and rap.


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By Karl Kiser
Mar 6, 2009

Difficult to say who did the FA of cracks in this area. We cleaned and led several cracks in the area including what is now the bottom of Humbolt prior to its bolting.
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Aug 21, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Very similar to the harder 5.8 corners at The Overlook at White Rock. Multiple (>2) gold camalots would be useful on this one.
No tree at the top for a belay, so prepare for a gear anchor in crummy rock. Would be more stars but for the chunder at the top, por desgracia.