The Devils V2
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Good page?   |
| Type: | Boulder |
| Consensus: | V2 [details] |
| FA: | Dunno... been climbed for ages. |
| Submitted By: | andy patterson on Jun 1, 2012 |
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Andy Patterson turning the lip of Dust Devil (sit-...
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Description A head's-up problem on good rock. For some reason, the holds remind me of the holds on Blitzkrieg. Anyways, start with hands on small stuff, head up and right. Top-out is on the insecure side and a bit funky, so get good spotters.
Location If you're facing the Trojan Boulder, look to the left of the Trojan Arete, and this is the first line on the left side of the big oak tree.
Protection Pads. I had several to level out the poor landing.
Topping out Dust Devil (sit-start to The Devils).
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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 1, 2012
| The sit-start to The Devils is called Dust Devil and is rated V6 in Bob's book. I would agree. Here's the beta:
1) Begin with hands matched on flat rail in cave.
2) Make some hard deadpoints to lip of cave.
3) top out via The Devils. |
By Will Barnes
From: Goleta, CA
Feb 14, 2013
| So true to SB form the 1st slopey crimp that you throw to for Dust Devils at the lip of the cave is half gone now(I broke it...sorry). Still goes but that move is definitely harder and more devious(it's now a bad two finger slopey pinch instead of a 4 finger crimp). Was V6, now hard V6. Sweet problem regardless though.
Also you can top out straight up as well using some little patina edges (probably won't be there for too long though). |
By Will Barnes
From: Goleta, CA
Apr 8, 2013
| Found some new beta on the sit this morning. I'd say still V6 albeit a tad harder than before the hold broke. |
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