al grahn wrote:
Andreis, you really squeezed a pimple here, didn't you? I've been climbing at the Lake for about 35 years. So I guess I'm an "old geezer". I don't see this as a conflict between the "Geezers" and the "Young Guns". Climbing is multidimensional. If you've only climbed in the gym and at sport crags, you've only explored one dimension. There is, and should be, room in the wide world of climbing for practitioners of all the styles and dimensions of the sport we all love, from high altitude mountaineering to alpine climbing, to hard crag climbing with gear only, to aid climbing, etc. Thankfully, I meet and talk to young climbers who are interested in all of these other aspects of the sport. For many climbers learning to set top rope anchors is the first step toward exploring the wider world off climbing. It's safe to say that no one would go to an area that has been developed as a sport crag and start pulling bolts. The bolt wars were hashed out in the nineties. Likewise, not every climb and every crag needs to be safe for democracy. Many people of all ages and levels of experience crave the sense of adventure and satisfaction that comes from mastering the skills necessary to do routes that require much more than the power and gymnastic ability to pull hard moves. I think all of us who consider ourselves traditionalists respect sport climbing as a fun and valid style of climbing. So, Andreis, I think you owe the same respect to the many people of all ages who stand behind the established Devils Lake ethic. In the words of my good friend Tommy "back down chumpster!" As has been pointed out, it is moot anyway.