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The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread...
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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Jun 3, 2013
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after f...
The best quote about DL toprope anchors is from the route description from Acid Rock, a classic DL climb. See "protection" on this link:

mountainproject.com/v/acid-roc...

Nuff said.

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By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Jun 3, 2013
hi
FUCK!!!!

Thank you Chris;
"TR, if you can't set one, Tommy Boy will come and hit you on the head with a tack hammer because you are a retard"

Now if the next person doesn't post a picture, and just keeps this stupid thread going with words, I will not be happy and will have to resort to finding Tommy Boy...

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By SteveSchultz
Jun 4, 2013
Bam. No picture. Your move Jugs...your move.

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By CJC
Jun 4, 2013
JJ Schlick wrote:
Maybe I am getting old, but this wishy wanty self righteous gym generation leaves me utterly baffled and disappointed sometimes. I'll tell you one thing, if you are going to make it in this game you had better be able to take care of yourself. No rules, no regulations, and no amount of fixed hardware is going to keep you safe and alive.


this.

and btw you're not getting old, the n00bs are getting lazy and sackless.

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By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Jun 4, 2013
hi
Just left my house in search of Tommy....That's right Steve, I am headed over to Monona now.

Wait! When have you even been to the top of the bluff to witness this TR crap that everyone is not talking about? There aren't any boulders there!!!

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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jun 4, 2013
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.
Steve topropes? This is like hearing that Aaron Rogers plays flag football ....

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By ccerling
From Boston, MA
Jun 4, 2013
me
Tommy Boy getting ready with the tack hammer
Tommy Boy getting ready with the tack hammer

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By EB
From Winona
Jun 4, 2013
I just finished teaching a climbing instructors course and exam at DLSP. I have placed a lot of bolts and can agree that in some areas(North Shore, etc) that fixed anchors can and do preserve the finite cliff top soil which is essential for trees (etc) to live. However, (1) most of the clifftops at DL are purely stone/ no vegetation, (2) if speed/proficiency is one of the arguments for adding fixed anchors at DLSP(which will never happen) I had students building trad top rope anchors this weekend in 2:36 , thats, 2 min, 36 seconds.... Average time for all participants TR anchors were all under 10 min.
The ability to construct a strong and redundant traditional TR anchor is fundamental skill for all traditional rock climbers.

As soon we begin lowering our standards for our sport we begin to risk loosing the quality of the experience it provides us.

Have high standards, get appropriate training, be a positive reflection of our sport and the user group we represent.

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By SteveSchultz
Jun 4, 2013
We were waiting but you never showed!!!!! And the only time I ever walk the top of the East Bluff anymore is if I need to get from Flatiron to Bulbous! HAH!

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By Ian Stewart
Jun 4, 2013
JLP wrote:
This is a joke. What happens at Devil's Lake isn't trad climbing.


He never said people are trad climbing at Devil's Lake. He said (and you quoted)

EB wrote:
The ability to construct a strong and redundant traditional TR anchor is fundamental skill for all traditional rock climbers.


Which is 100% true. Have you ever met a trad climber that couldn't build an anchor?

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By ChaseLeoncini
From San Diego, California
Jun 4, 2013
El Cajon Mtn. Leonids. 5.9.
^^ I have. Shits real. Scary out there ha

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By Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Jun 4, 2013
Goofin on the Frogs Head Arch before I rap off.
jon jugenheimer wrote:
Taken Saturday on top of the East bluff. Yes, I did have a very nice conversation of the single piece of webbing to the "Master point" guy belaying his grandson on it...scary shit...



WTF!!!!! Sketch fest and a half.

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By Woodchuck ATC
Jun 4, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
JLP wrote:
This is a joke. What happens at Devil's Lake isn't trad climbing. Top roping, rehearsing, dicking around with 100's of feet of tubular webbing over a 50 foot cliff - it's not trad climbing - not even close.


Well the use of topropes in traditional climbing has long been in use as part of that sport. Basic safety backup to first leads, etc. and for beginners learning moves. Sport climbers never saw the need to learn the anchor part, they just 'borrowed' the hangdog and repeated falls part of outdoor climbing once they've got all those bolts slapped in place all the way up their crackless routes. Their use of toprope is only for a second or less skilled climber to run up the route off a couple of bolted draws at the top chain anchors.

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jun 4, 2013
Stoked...
Woodchuck ATC wrote:
Well the use of topropes in traditional climbing has long been in use as part of that sport. Basic safety backup to first leads, etc. and for beginners learning moves. Sport climbers never saw the need to learn the anchor part, they just 'borrowed' the hangdog and repeated falls part of outdoor climbing once they've got all those bolts slapped in place all the way up their crackless routes. Their use of toprope is only for a second or less skilled climber to run up the route off a couple of bolted draws at the top chain anchors.


I love the romantic view of TR'ing a trad route and the utter disdain at TR with regards a Sport route... totally classic! Foot in mouth?

Here in CT, TR'ing is it's own beast, there are Traditional, Sport, and Top Rope routes.

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By Woodchuck ATC
Jun 4, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
CaptainMo wrote:
I love the romantic view of TR'ing a trad route and the utter disdain at TR with regards a Sport route... totally classic! Foot in mouth? Here in CT, TR'ing is it's own beast, there are Traditional, Sport, and Top Rope routes.


Some of the death leads at Devils Lake were never led for years. I think there still must be a few really nasty hard to protect top-rope only climbs there, and new ones I"m sure I don't even know about. It has much more top rope climbing each weekend than many other trad' climbing areas I've ever been to, that's for sure.

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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Jun 4, 2013
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after f...
Woodchuck ATC wrote:
Some of the death leads at Devils Lake were never led for years. I think there still must be a few really nasty hard to protect top-rope only climbs there, and new ones I"m sure I don't even know about. It has much more top rope climbing each weekend than many other trad' climbing areas I've ever been to, that's for sure.


See link above. Acid Rock was first lead in 2006. First TR was in early 80's? There are numerous others just like it.

Poor Jugs. Your thread now officially sucks. Sorry dude.

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By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Jun 5, 2013
hi
Yup, this thread blows...I am out!

Fuck it all


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By Tradoholic
Jun 5, 2013
I'm just sitting back and watching this one, WAY too easy. First time I've seen Eggbert pissed! Keep it up!

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jun 5, 2013
Stoked...
Trad Nanny wrote:
I'm just sitting back and watching this one, WAY too easy. First time I've seen Eggbert pissed! Keep it up!


Looks like you were workin ACid Rock on lead... doesn't leading something like that basically make it a free solo?

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By Woodchuck ATC
Jun 5, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
CaptainMo wrote:
Looks like you were workin ACid Rock on lead... doesn't leading something like that basically make it a free solo?


Agree that some of those 'first leads' were done on such sketchy pro. After endless wired toprope ascents, that 'lead' was basically a free solo cuz nothing would have held a fall on them. Amazing how tough it is to find a placement on much of that rock.

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By Tradoholic
Jun 5, 2013
CaptainMo wrote:
Looks like you were workin ACid Rock on lead... doesn't leading something like that basically make it a free solo?


Yes, the first part was free solo, but then I got one good piece in.

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By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Jun 5, 2013
hi
Damn it, I am back.

Enjoy this little slice of heaven from last March;

awesomepants...
awesomepants...

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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Jun 6, 2013
tanuki
Wow. That hurts my head.

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By Woodchuck ATC
Jun 6, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
that's like a double break bar set of 'biners binding down on the rope, besides the nice single slings and awesome force that side pull anchor must be placing on the gate of the biner....as often said here....'yer gonna die'.!

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By Tito Krull
Jun 6, 2013
hello everyone. climbing the lake june14th through the 25th hit me up i got rope, and gear, and awesome jk,(920)250-1621, looking for people more knowledgeable about the areas, i've only been there a few times. wanna climb the shit outta that place and meet peeps that wanna do the same.

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