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Jun 3, 2013
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after f...
The best quote about DL toprope anchors is from the route description from Acid Rock, a classic DL climb. See "protection" on this link:

mountainproject.com/v/acid-roc...

Nuff said.
Chris treggE
From Madison, WI
Joined May 25, 2007
9,080 points
Jun 3, 2013
hi
FUCK!!!!

Thank you Chris;
"TR, if you can't set one, Tommy Boy will come and hit you on the head with a tack hammer because you are a retard"

Now if the next person doesn't post a picture, and just keeps this stupid thread going with words, I will not be happy and will have to resort to finding Tommy Boy...
jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Joined Apr 24, 2006
1,229 points
Jun 4, 2013
Bam. No picture. Your move Jugs...your move. SteveSchultz
Joined May 31, 2006
2,289 points
Jun 4, 2013
Mashers Tower
JJ Schlick wrote:
Maybe I am getting old, but this wishy wanty self righteous gym generation leaves me utterly baffled and disappointed sometimes. I'll tell you one thing, if you are going to make it in this game you had better be able to take care of yourself. No rules, no regulations, and no amount of fixed hardware is going to keep you safe and alive.


this.

and btw you're not getting old, the n00bs are getting lazy and sackless.
Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
162 points
Jun 4, 2013
hi
Just left my house in search of Tommy....That's right Steve, I am headed over to Monona now.

Wait! When have you even been to the top of the bluff to witness this TR crap that everyone is not talking about? There aren't any boulders there!!!
jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Joined Apr 24, 2006
1,229 points
Administrator
Jun 4, 2013
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.
Steve topropes? This is like hearing that Aaron Rogers plays flag football .... Doug Hemken
Joined Oct 1, 2004
5,192 points
Jun 4, 2013
me
Tommy Boy getting ready with the tack hammer
Tommy Boy getting ready with the tack hammer
ccerling
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 29, 2010
56 points
Jun 4, 2013
I just finished teaching a climbing instructors course and exam at DLSP. I have placed a lot of bolts and can agree that in some areas(North Shore, etc) that fixed anchors can and do preserve the finite cliff top soil which is essential for trees (etc) to live. However, (1) most of the clifftops at DL are purely stone/ no vegetation, (2) if speed/proficiency is one of the arguments for adding fixed anchors at DLSP(which will never happen) I had students building trad top rope anchors this weekend in 2:36 , thats, 2 min, 36 seconds.... Average time for all participants TR anchors were all under 10 min.
The ability to construct a strong and redundant traditional TR anchor is fundamental skill for all traditional rock climbers.

As soon we begin lowering our standards for our sport we begin to risk loosing the quality of the experience it provides us.

Have high standards, get appropriate training, be a positive reflection of our sport and the user group we represent.
EB
From Winona
Joined Jan 1, 2002
790 points
Jun 4, 2013
We were waiting but you never showed!!!!! And the only time I ever walk the top of the East Bluff anymore is if I need to get from Flatiron to Bulbous! HAH! SteveSchultz
Joined May 31, 2006
2,289 points
Jun 4, 2013
JLP wrote:
This is a joke. What happens at Devil's Lake isn't trad climbing.


He never said people are trad climbing at Devil's Lake. He said (and you quoted)

EB wrote:
The ability to construct a strong and redundant traditional TR anchor is fundamental skill for all traditional rock climbers.


Which is 100% true. Have you ever met a trad climber that couldn't build an anchor?
Ian Stewart
Joined May 17, 2010
166 points
Jun 4, 2013
El Cajon Mtn. Leonids. 5.9.
^^ I have. Shits real. Scary out there ha ChaseLeoncini
From San Diego, California
Joined Aug 22, 2012
145 points
Jun 4, 2013
Goofin on the Frogs Head Arch before I rap off.
jon jugenheimer wrote:
Taken Saturday on top of the East bluff. Yes, I did have a very nice conversation of the single piece of webbing to the "Master point" guy belaying his grandson on it...scary shit...



WTF!!!!! Sketch fest and a half.
Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Joined Apr 11, 2012
155 points
Jun 4, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
JLP wrote:
This is a joke. What happens at Devil's Lake isn't trad climbing. Top roping, rehearsing, dicking around with 100's of feet of tubular webbing over a 50 foot cliff - it's not trad climbing - not even close.


Well the use of topropes in traditional climbing has long been in use as part of that sport. Basic safety backup to first leads, etc. and for beginners learning moves. Sport climbers never saw the need to learn the anchor part, they just 'borrowed' the hangdog and repeated falls part of outdoor climbing once they've got all those bolts slapped in place all the way up their crackless routes. Their use of toprope is only for a second or less skilled climber to run up the route off a couple of bolted draws at the top chain anchors.
Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,090 points
Administrator
Jun 4, 2013
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
Woodchuck ATC wrote:
Well the use of topropes in traditional climbing has long been in use as part of that sport. Basic safety backup to first leads, etc. and for beginners learning moves. Sport climbers never saw the need to learn the anchor part, they just 'borrowed' the hangdog and repeated falls part of outdoor climbing once they've got all those bolts slapped in place all the way up their crackless routes. Their use of toprope is only for a second or less skilled climber to run up the route off a couple of bolted draws at the top chain anchors.


I love the romantic view of TR'ing a trad route and the utter disdain at TR with regards a Sport route... totally classic! Foot in mouth?

Here in CT, TR'ing is it's own beast, there are Traditional, Sport, and Top Rope routes.
Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,417 points
Jun 4, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
CaptainMo wrote:
I love the romantic view of TR'ing a trad route and the utter disdain at TR with regards a Sport route... totally classic! Foot in mouth? Here in CT, TR'ing is it's own beast, there are Traditional, Sport, and Top Rope routes.


Some of the death leads at Devils Lake were never led for years. I think there still must be a few really nasty hard to protect top-rope only climbs there, and new ones I"m sure I don't even know about. It has much more top rope climbing each weekend than many other trad' climbing areas I've ever been to, that's for sure.
Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,090 points
Administrator
Jun 4, 2013
This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after f...
Woodchuck ATC wrote:
Some of the death leads at Devils Lake were never led for years. I think there still must be a few really nasty hard to protect top-rope only climbs there, and new ones I"m sure I don't even know about. It has much more top rope climbing each weekend than many other trad' climbing areas I've ever been to, that's for sure.


See link above. Acid Rock was first lead in 2006. First TR was in early 80's? There are numerous others just like it.

Poor Jugs. Your thread now officially sucks. Sorry dude.
Chris treggE
From Madison, WI
Joined May 25, 2007
9,080 points
Jun 5, 2013
hi
Yup, this thread blows...I am out!

Fuck it all

jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Joined Apr 24, 2006
1,229 points
Jun 5, 2013
I'm just sitting back and watching this one, WAY too easy. First time I've seen Eggbert pissed! Keep it up! Tradoholic
Joined Apr 17, 2004
12,440 points
Administrator
Jun 5, 2013
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
Trad Nanny wrote:
I'm just sitting back and watching this one, WAY too easy. First time I've seen Eggbert pissed! Keep it up!


Looks like you were workin ACid Rock on lead... doesn't leading something like that basically make it a free solo?
Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,417 points
Jun 5, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
CaptainMo wrote:
Looks like you were workin ACid Rock on lead... doesn't leading something like that basically make it a free solo?


Agree that some of those 'first leads' were done on such sketchy pro. After endless wired toprope ascents, that 'lead' was basically a free solo cuz nothing would have held a fall on them. Amazing how tough it is to find a placement on much of that rock.
Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,090 points
Jun 5, 2013
CaptainMo wrote:
Looks like you were workin ACid Rock on lead... doesn't leading something like that basically make it a free solo?


Yes, the first part was free solo, but then I got one good piece in.
Tradoholic
Joined Apr 17, 2004
12,440 points
Jun 5, 2013
hi
Damn it, I am back.

Enjoy this little slice of heaven from last March;

awesomepants...
awesomepants...
jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Joined Apr 24, 2006
1,229 points
Jun 6, 2013
tanuki
Wow. That hurts my head. NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Joined Dec 6, 2009
121 points
Jun 6, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
that's like a double break bar set of 'biners binding down on the rope, besides the nice single slings and awesome force that side pull anchor must be placing on the gate of the biner....as often said here....'yer gonna die'.! Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,090 points
Jun 6, 2013
hello everyone. climbing the lake june14th through the 25th hit me up i got rope, and gear, and awesome jk,(920)250-1621, looking for people more knowledgeable about the areas, i've only been there a few times. wanna climb the shit outta that place and meet peeps that wanna do the same.
Tito Krull
Joined Oct 13, 2012
14 points


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