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> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
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> Chilliwack Range
> Southeast Mox Peak
The Devils Club
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British X
Avg: 2 from 3
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Routes in Southeast Mox Peak
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Beckey Route (West Ridge) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Devils Club, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 25 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Mike Layton and Eric Wolfe, 2005 |
| Page Views: | 3,214 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Trout on Feb 24, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
A Gneiss Monster
Summer of 2005, the wall was climbed and then rappelled. Two articles were published about the Devil's Club route; Alpinist #15, and the 2007 AAC Journal.
ROUTE DESCRIPTIONS
Eric Wherly's report of the 2008 second route, with variation, on the east face.
Prospecting for more unclimbed routes in the North Cascades is a lot more fun using John Scurlock's Gallery .
APPROACH MAP
According to both internet reports, no bolts were placed. The gear was good enough that the route was rappelled from the high-point and the second ascent team liked the holds.
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