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 ADVANCED
Southeast Mox Peak (2,594m)
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Devils Club, The T 

The Devils Club 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c X

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 25 pitches, 2000', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Mike Layton and Eric Wolfe, 2005
Season: summer
Page Views: 763
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Feb 24, 2009

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Mike leading high on the route

INTRODUCTION

Summer of 2005, the wall was climbed, but the summit was not quite reached. Two articles were published about Devils Club; Alpinist #15, and the 2007 AAC Journal. Both articles understated the historical significance of Mox East Face.

September of 2008, Rolf Larson and Eric Wehrly took the route all the way across unclimbed Lemolo Peak to the main summit. Descent was via the south side glacier, back to Perry Creek.

ROUTE DESCRIPTIONS

Mike Layton's report of the 2005 ascent.

Eric Wherly's report of the 2008 completion.

Prospecting for more unclimbed routes in the North Cascades is a lot more fun using John Scurlock's Gallery .


According to both internet reports, no bolts were placed. Tough to find the route and hard to get protection on the steep gneiss. But the gear was good enough that the route was rappelled from the high-point and the second ascent team liked the holds.


Photos of The Devils Club Slideshow Add Photo
Devils Club marked red.  Much of the wall is hidde...
BETA PHOTO: Devils Club marked red. Much of the wall is hidde...

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By MisterE
From: Bishop, CA
Feb 25, 2009

Yes:

cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbt...

The revised grade is 5.11- X.