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Page S. moving through the crux of the Demon.
A Socorro Classic! Make powerful sequential moves up a clean overhung wall. Start with easy moves up to a huge Hueco and clip the first bolt. From here get ready to crank. Angle left passing the second bolt and snag a rest at the large hueco, the only good hold on the route. Clip the third bolt and angle up and right to the 4th bolt. Pull the crux moves and it's over. Take a nap on the ledge and make a few easy moves past the 5th bolt to the anchors.
Between Bats out of Hell and Captain Blueberry.
5 Bolts + Anchors
Jan 25, 2010
Pete Zoller and Curt Fry had TR'ed it and wrote 5.12c/d at the base in chalk (spring 1991), and so I asked around all over Albuquerque and Socorro if anyone knew who the mystery topropers were. The timing was funny - I'd scoped the line one weekend, decided I wanted to come back and bolt it the next, and in the interim, on one of the weekdays, those guys - on a road trip down from Colorado - toproped it, wrote the grade in the hopes that someone might bolt it, then headed back home.
I got on it on TR that next weekend and proceeded to break off a jug flake in the middle of the crux, so figured if it had been 5.12c/d before that, now it was 5.13a. Dunno. That's what I graded it. Seems to be a slash grade, a 5.12d/13a, sort of like The Beast at Rifle, depending on whom you ask.
So, there you go re. the grade. Have fun!
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 26, 2012
I had been told when I first did this route that it was 5.12d if you pre clipped the second and 5.13a if you did not. Really seems kind of silly to be splitting hairs, FWIW the 4th clip is harder than the second anyway.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 27, 2012
I've taken a lot of good natured abuse over the years for posting this as 12d on here. Here is the logic behind my posting of this at the 12d grade.
- I had heard this was 13a if your tall, 12d if your short. I'm 5'6" so not especially tall.
- When I did this I had never climbed a 13a, only 2 12d's Rucksack Wanderer (Maple) and Mad Hatter (Tower), I was able to do this in fewer goes than both the previous climbs. 2 try's on TR with beta from Ruben, and 1 try on lead for the redpoint, over 2 climbing days.
- I wasn't and still aren't as strong on vertical face as I am on steeper more endurance oriented lines.
- NM having a soft reputation annoys me, so I tend to grade things on the stiff side :)
Based off of this I didn't see how it could have been 13a. I'm pretty sure I clipped the second bolt (draws were pre-hung), and I remember the 4th clip, at the small roof, being really hard as well.
|By Dave Wachter|
Mar 1, 2012
I heard a key foothold broke off at the lower crux (between the 2 jugs at the bottom of the route), and based on my attempts to find something to smear my stealth onyx resoles on I can believe that. Not sure when the alleged holdbreaking occurred, but DTP, if you climbed the route beforehand that may explain the controversy. Unfortunately I may never know how hard this is because I injured an A4 pulley (right ring finger) trying to work through that boulder problem. I max out at the cusp of V6/7 and it seemed to me to be just beyond my redline. Maybe if I spent more time on it I'd figure out an easier way through, but that won't likely happen this season >: I
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 1, 2012
I've heard the same thing about the boken foothold. I think it broke in the last year or two. I would have guessed the bottom crux to be V5 when I did it so if it is V6/V7 now then I would think it would be solid 13a.
Good luck on the finger, finger injuries suck. Mine has been injured since December...
Mar 5, 2012
I left two oval biners on the chains a year ago and now they are gone. I know new mexicans think that carabiners at chains are 'booty', but you are really just stealing from yourself. I would have thought that a classic 13 would see more respect from the community. hope you find a good use for them: they are 20 years old and ovals. good job.
and i agree, the start is definitely more difficult since said key foothold broke.