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 ADVANCED
The Rad Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Azkaban Jam T 
Basilisk Fang T 
Cadillac Crack T 
Chamber of Secrets, The T 
Dark Arts T 
Dementor, The T 
Diagon Alley T 
Falling Rein T 
Fright of the Phoenix, The T 
Get Rad T 
Moaning Myrtle T 
Rita Skeeter T 

The Dementor 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Larry DeAngelo & Paul Crosby
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 445
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005

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The rappel past the cave-like roof of the Dementor...

Description 

About 60 or 80 feet to the right of Azkaban Jam is an ominous triangular cave. This route climbs all the way into the back of the cave, then chimneys out to the lip.

Pitch 1: a short 4th class pitch leads to a belay spot just below the cave.

Pitch 2: jam the crack on the right, all the way into the back of the cave. Chimney down and out toward the lip. One or two hand-size cams can be placed near the lip. Jam out and set up a hanging belay just outside (to minimize rope drag). This is a bad pitch to fall from; even the second can take quite a swing and find themselves in prusik country.

Pitch 3: A short pitch leads up to the big ledge.

Rappel the route.

Protection 

Cams from finger-size to #4, with a few extra hand-size cams; also a few finger-size hexes


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