One of my favorite short trad climbs of all time! Two excellent pitches are different in character but both technical and delicate. Not nearly as scary as the guide makes it out to be. Start on the front of the Our Father/Wholesome Fullback pinnacle at a thin crack and face.
P1: Climb straight up past a few bolts to a mantle ledge, clip the bolt above from this ledge, shake out, then reverse the mantle and finger traverse right for a ways until a weakness allows you to pull the roof and climb back left (an RP is useful to protect this "scary" section). Belay in a little hole with a nest of decent gear. 5.11a.
P2: Climb out right to the exposed, sharp, arete and up this past several bolts. Pull onto the face and continue up easier (possibly loose) rock until a final mantle lands you at the top of the pillar. 5.11a.
Rap Our Father.
Mostly small gear including a set of RP's. Quickdraws.
Almost to the first bolt on Delicate Sound of Thun...
Vitaliy on the arete of P2 of Delicate Sound of Th...
Apr 6, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On the FA I tried to go direct on the first pitch but couldn't and eventually launched out right. Dave was able to place a large cam (#4) high on the second pitch in an inobvious square hole on the left side of the arete. I remember that he was pretty happy to get a cam out there. It was butt-cold during the FA and we had down jackets that I think we even climbed in.
|By Jon O'Brien|
Jul 20, 2009
You guys put up awesome routes, cheers :-)
|By sean barb|
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Aug 15, 2009
way cool route with lots of "a-ha" sequences. do it.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 24, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I thought it was a bit scary. Cool route (we like em a bit scary).
|By Cpn Dunsel|
Mar 22, 2011
Stellar. One of the best routes in its grade in all of Red Rock.
|By Bob Rotert|
Apr 20, 2011
Daves & Marge, one of my favorite routes at Red Rocks! An awesome climb!
Oct 16, 2011
Replaced P2 bolts last spring. Thanks to ASCA for the hardware.
|By Rob Fielding|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 2, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Great route! First pitch is pretty burly, and I was just following it. The bolts need replacement on the first pitch so be very careful. Bring some small gear including rps.
|By Short Fall Sean|
Apr 1, 2013
This route is outrageously good. I'm surprised it doesn't get more hype. The traverse on p1 seemed substantially harder than anything on p2. So maybe 11b for one and 11a for two. I'd put it in the category of "scary" but not "holy shit, I'm gonna die". I followed p1 so I didn't look too carefully, but I remember the bolts looking fine.
|By Phil Esra|
Apr 4, 2013
I didn't find the "10c 15 feet out from the bolt" on p1 to be particularly scary. The fall doesn't look like it would be that bad. I *was* scared on crappy thin gear before the (high) first bolt. Amazing line, max stars.
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 29, 2014
P2 was amazing one of the best pitches I've done in Red Rock. P2 felt easier and less committing then the move out of the traverse on P1.
|By Austin Boren|
From: ;as vegas Nevada
Jan 29, 2014
both pitches on this are awesome. P1 felt hard for the grade. Bring a camera!