This route is diverse. It begins with a delicate mantle that leads into a more powerful roof. Beyond the roof is nice rest stance. Use it, and then negotiate the crux with small holds and high step move. The rest of the route turns into easy slab climbing, with protection becoming more sparse.
You'll need quickdraws for 10 bolts and a two-bolt anchor.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 1, 2001
Young Doug - This is another fun route. The beginning is all over the place, then you land in a cool sloper-pop-to-undercling thing crux. The upper section along with Sargasso is some of the nicest face climbing in the canyon. Yep.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 8, 2004
The initial "mantle" felt about 8 or 9 doing it right of the first bolt, and it wasn't a mantle. Climbing left of the first bolt is hard. Above that, moving right and back left is fun. Does the 12a variation in Rossiter go directly over the ceiling rather than traversing left? The crux is tenuous. Maneuvering prior to doing the move, I felt my hands could pop at any time. The easier face above is way fun with big knobs making the widely spaced bolts seem reasonable.
|By Chris O'Connor|
From: bouldertown, co
Apr 30, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
The harder variation goes right at the overhang and skirts along the side of the ceiling.
|By Richard Rossiter|
May 9, 2007
The date of the FA was June 1996 as for all three routes on The Icon, just next door.
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2010
This route took some work. Those holds at the crux, the left hand, two finger sloper knob and the small righty slippery crimp, do not inspire confidence, but piecing it all together was totally satisfying. The rest of the route isn't terrifically difficult, but arriving at the crux with plenty of gas in the tank seemed crucial.