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 ADVANCED
Wall of the Dead
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Dead Again 
Dead Can Dance 
Dead Zone, The 
Isle of the Dead 

The Dead Zone 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,458
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 17, 2005
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Pebby Johns starting up The Dead Zone.
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Description 

This is primarily a crack climb on the Wall of The Dead at Avalon. Begin in the same right-facing dihedral as Dead Can Dance. Stem up and stretch left to clip the first bolt on this route. Climb thin cracks to a bulge and a second bolt. Turn the bulge, and continue up cracks and corners to the anchor.


Protection 

Small to medium stoppers and cams up to about 2.5 inches. Plan on placing maybe six to eight pieces. Two bolts plus a two-bolt anchor at the top.



Photos of The Dead Zone Slideshow Add Photo
The Dead Zone.  Start in the same corner as Dead Can Dance.  Stem up and clip a bolt, move left, and climb thin cracks to a bulge.  Clip a second bolt, surmount the bulge (crux), and continue up steep cracks to the top.
BETA PHOTO: The Dead Zone. Start in the same corner as Dead C...
Pebby Johns moving left at the crux of The Dead Zone.
Pebby Johns moving left at the crux of The Dead Zo...
Christa Cline cranking the crux past the second bolt.  It's also possible to climb the crux taking a line more to the left.
Christa Cline cranking the crux past the second bo...
Jill Salva nearing the top of The Dead Zone.
Jill Salva nearing the top of The Dead Zone.
Comments on The Dead Zone Add Comment
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By Richard Rossiter
Jul 20, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

This is a lead version of a previous TR called SARCOPHAGUS, 11a, but does not turn the initial roof, hence the lighter rating. Begin in the same RFD as Dead Can Dance. Stem up and stretch left to clip the first bolt on this route. Pull left into the line and climb straight up, mostly on gear. There is one more bolt at a blank section about halfway up. Lower off, 60 feet? Two stars I guess on the Avalon scale. The gear is very fun.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

A great addition to Avalon; sustained, interesting climbing from bottom to top. Surmounting the crux bulge at the second bolt requires good balance and footwork. The cracks above protect well and are enjoyable to climb.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

One and a half stars- maybe 2 for this cliff. Nice climb, and tastefully done. The gear is straightforward and solid. As well, it is supplemented by 2 bolts, one just before the crux. It would be easy to escape right to the route "Dead Can Dance" just to the right. So perhaps this is an ideal beginner trad lead for the competent sport climber who has just taken up the rack.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 29, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The crux at the second bolt can be done in two ways:

1. Move right and up to the roof, then use great holds to turn the roof to the left. See Photo of Christa Cline.

2. Move left with tricky balance, then face climb the slab using a thin crack. See Photo of Pebby Johns.

The first method is definitely easier.

By brent pohlmann
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 18, 2005

This thing is a choss pile compared to the routes surrounding it. Plus there is 4 by 5 foot death block on the top. The routes left and right of it are much more enjoyable......and safer.

By Jo Holloway
May 14, 2007

Reasons to do this route:

1)You are thirsting for some trad while at The Avalon
2)You want to feel assured that you've done every official route on this rock
3)You are conducting a survey of rock-borne ecosystems and admire the moss, lichens and ferns as you go up.
4)You enjoy putting your limbs through a cheese grater.