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The Dead Terrorist 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 7 pitches, 540', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Schuessler, Matt Myers. 8-4-2012
Page Views: 4,396
Submitted By: ........................... on Oct 16, 2012

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at the end of P.4

Description 

This super fun route takes a beautiful position on the cliff as it wonders up the ridge. A candidate for the longest route in the San Bernardino Mountains. Fully bolted, no trad gear necessary!

WARNING: If people are climbing in the canyon use extreme caution not to knock off loose rocks. Although this route is fully bolted be prepared to spend several hours on the wall (Grade II), and don't forget to bring water.


P1. 5.7. 9 Bolts, Chain Anchor, 90 feet. Start by climbing “Rumble in the Rubble” Clip the “Rumble” anchor with a quickdraw and continue up past bolts and a permadraw up to the Anchor on a shared belay ledge with “Eco Challenge”.

P.2. 5.8. 11 Bolts, Chain Anchors, 90 feet. Climb up the beautiful slab tending right staying close to and sometimes on the arête. About 2/3 up traverse right passing the arête and head into the corner, then up the block to finish on the “Sniper Ledge”.
(P.1 & P.2 can be combined for a 180’ pitch. You can retreat by two 100’ rappels)

P.3. 5.4. 2 Bolts, Chain Anchor, 50 feet. Climb up and left passing two bolts, mantle onto easy ground then up to the Chain anchor on the face above. This puts you on top of the lower buttress.

P.4. 5.8. 8 Bolts, Slung tree, Chain Anchor, 80 feet. “The Traverse” Climb horizontally right past good moves with incredible exposure, go under and clip the stump, swinging on it like a monkey. Keep heading right and make the crux moves transitioning onto the right face. A few more moves with epic exposure to the belay.
(You can retreat by rapping strait down past two oak trees to a project anchor. Rap from project anchor down and right to the “Swamp Thing” anchor.)

P.5. 5.6. Bolts, Chain Anchor, 90 feet. Climb traversing up and right following the bolts on the high quality slab with amazing exposure. (Can escape by rapping to the bird ledge left of sidewalk ledge.)

P.6. 5.6. Bolts, Bolted Anchor, 90 feet . More high quality slab and face, pass above several anchors for the headwall climbs and finish up and right to the belay ledge.
(Can rap down to the sidewalk ledge then rap “Jacks First Trip”)

P.7. 5.4. 5 Bolts, Bolted Anchor, 50 feet. Easy climbing off to the right of the ledge that narrows into a corner, step right and make the final slab moves with huge exposure to the belay ledge. From here either make two rappels down to the “Bad Boys” anchor or hike off the back and down to rap “slippery when wet”.

Location 

Start by climbing Rumble in the Rubble. The route can be rapped from any point. At the end of P7 you can do three raps to the ground or hike off the back.

Protection 

Fully bolted, Chain anchors. Can be done with 12 quickdraws and a 60m rope!


Photos of The Dead Terrorist Slideshow Add Photo
Dead Terrorist ridge traverse  <br />P1: 5.7 <br />P2: 5.8 <br />P3: 5.4 <br />P4: 5.8 <br />P5: 5.6 <br />P6: 5.6 <br />P7: 5.5
BETA PHOTO: Dead Terrorist ridge traverse P1: 5.7 P2: 5.8 P3:...
Carlos at the P.4 Anchor.
Carlos at the P.4 Anchor.
Carlos finishing the crux.
Carlos finishing the crux.
Carlos says "Wild" on the traverse.
Carlos says "Wild" on the traverse.
The awesome Traverse. Best part of the route
The awesome Traverse. Best part of the route

Comments on The Dead Terrorist Add Comment
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By ...........................
Oct 16, 2012

For more info check out the following:

picasaweb.google.com/114665559...
By wtfclem
Nov 13, 2012

awesomely fun route, amazing exposure on P2 and 4
By Jeff Edge
Feb 4, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed the route today, some loose rock but not bad at all.

If I was you, I would:
-link pitches 2&3 (pitch 3 is just a short scramble up to p4 belay)
-leave all draws on P4 traverse for your second (even the sketchy stump)
-link pitches 5&6 if you backclean a few draws or run it out, drags not too bad at all

Didn't do the final pitch, rapped off the anchors just to the right (about 2 feet down and to the right) of the P6 anchors. 2 Ropes got us to the "sidewalk" ledge (I think, fixed line on it..pretty big. We were about 20 ft past the middle (on 2 60m) so if rapping with one 60m from P6 you'd want to find some intermediary anchors to gain an extra 15-20ft. Then another double rope simul-rap from the ledge got us down below the upper falls.

Thanks very much to the FAist for such a fun route so close to home, appreciate the incredible amount of effort it must have taken to clean.
Also, one of the bolts on the slab face of p5(or beginning of 6) was smashed flat, could still get a draw on and climbing was super easy right there anyway.
By redbandit
May 6, 2013

climbed it today. the traverse is fun. lots of bolts and anchors around. bring 2 ropes for long raps. lost of chossy stuff. would not come back for this one. but lots of solid single pitch hard climbs
By Garrett Wardlow
From: Huntington Beach, CA
Mar 24, 2014

Super fun route. Pitch 4 is the best but felt much harder than 5.8. I'd say more like .10...
By mnjsan
Apr 28, 2014

Really enjoyed the route. Pitch 4 which is the traverse was especially fun. 2 things to note though are there is some loose rock on pitches 5-7. There isnt a ton of it but whats there is big. Any one walking out of the canyon or on the lower routes is in the direct line of the rock fall so be careful. Also the route info should be updated to rappel only. The walk off is almost non existent and very hard to find. Your much better rapping since there are a ton of anchors below you.
By Alan-C
Jun 1, 2014

Pitch 2 gets a bit confusing when you hit the arete for the sniper ledge: there is 1 bolt on the arete (5.10?), 1 painted bolt in the corner left of the arete (5.6/7?), and about 3 bolts protecting moves to climb the right side of the arete (5.7/8?) [the first of which is on the right side of the original arete, other 2 on the right of the sniper-ledge arete].
DO NOT CLIP THE FACE ARETE BOLT unless you climb straight up the face to the gigantic ledge, as it will cause exceedingly high rope-drag (read: z-clip) if you choose either the right or left routes.
By Andrew Nelson
Jul 6, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route! We linked pitches 2-3 and 5-6. Traverse is quite awkward and a bit scarey. For those who like exposure, this pitch has a lot of it! Note of caution, there is webbing extending a chain on the traverse. I would clip directly into the bolt as the webbing is getting kind of worn. Heard one too many stories about webbing failing on people to trust it! If I had been thinking clearly (read: not scared) I would have taken the time to remove the webbing. The chain is long enough that it isn't an issue. Rock is a little lose on the lower sections, but is quite solid after the traverse.
By Countzen
Sep 29, 2014

You can get down by rapping twice with a 70m rope, from the LONG top chains. With a 70m, you will end just right at where the white hand-line is, and where the anchors with the wood backing (Why?) is.
By Mtnfly
From: El Segundo, Ca
Oct 10, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Pitch 4 did feel harder than 5.8. Rapped with a single 70m to intermediate anchors on pitch 4 or 5. Fun day outside but there I are lots of loose rocks.