The Dead Terrorist  5.8

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Type:  Sport, 7 pitches, 540 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Chris Schuessler, Matt Myers. 8-4-2012 Submitted By:  ........................... on Oct 16, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

at the end of P.4

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Description 

This super fun route takes a beautiful position on the cliff as it wonders up the ridge. A candidate for the longest route in the San Bernardino Mountains. Fully bolted, no trad gear necessary!

WARNING: If people are climbing in the canyon use extreme caution not to knock off loose rocks. Although this route is fully bolted be prepared to spend several hours on the wall(Grade II), and don't forget to bring water.


P1. 5.7. 9 Bolts, Chain Anchor, 90 feet. Start by climbing “Rumble in the Rubble” Clip the “Rumble” anchor with a quickdraw and continue up past bolts and a permadraw up to the Anchor on a shared belay ledge with “Eco Challenge”.

P.2. 5.8. 11 Bolts, Chain Anchors, 90 feet. Climb up the beautiful slab tending right staying close to and sometimes on the arête. About 2/3 up traverse right passing the arête and head into the corner, then up the block to finish on the “Sniper Ledge”.
(P.1 & P.2 can be combined for a 180’ pitch. You can retreat by two 100’ rappels)

P.3. 5.4. 2 Bolts, Chain Anchor, 50 feet. Climb up and left passing two bolts, mantle onto easy ground then up to the Chain anchor on the face above. This puts you on top of the lower buttress.

P.4. 5.8. 8 Bolts, Slung tree, Chain Anchor, 80 feet. “The Traverse” Climb horizontally right past good moves with incredible exposure, go under and clip the stump, swinging on it like a monkey. Keep heading right and make the crux moves transitioning onto the right face. A few more moves with epic exposure to the belay.
(You can retreat by rapping strait down past two oak trees to a project anchor. Rap from project anchor down and right to the “Swamp Thing” anchor.)

P.5. 5.6. Bolts, Chain Anchor, 90 feet. Climb traversing up and right following the bolts on the high quality slab with amazing exposure. (Can escape by rapping to the bird ledge left of sidewalk ledge.)

P.6. 5.6. Bolts, Bolted Anchor, 90 feet . More high quality slab and face, pass above several anchors for the headwall climbs and finish up and right to the belay ledge.
(Can rap down to the sidewalk ledge then rap “Jacks First Trip”)

P.7. 5.4. 5 Bolts, Bolted Anchor, 50 feet. Easy climbing off to the right of the ledge that narrows into a corner, step right and make the final slab moves with huge exposure to the belay ledge. From here either make two rappels down to the “Bad Boys” anchor or hike off the back and down to rap “slippery when wet”.

Location 

Start by climbing Rumble in the Rubble. The route can be rapped from any point. At the end of P7 you can do three raps to the ground or hike off the back.

Protection 

Fully bolted, Chain anchors. Can be done with 12 quickdraws and a 60m rope!

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BETA PHOTO: Dead Terrorist ridge traverse P1: 5.7 P2: 5.8 P3:...