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The Dead Snag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ad Lib T 
Call Me Slim T 
Dead Snag Direttissima T 
Die Another Day T 
East Dihedrals T 
Force of Nature T 
Funk T 
Gypsy Girl S 
Jig's Up T 
North Dihedrals T 
North Ridge T 
R&B T 
Rock! T 
Social Engineering T 
Steorts' Ridge T 

The Dead Snag  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.62082, -111.74466 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 79,738
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John J. Glime on Oct 5, 2003  with updates from SpencerB


77° | 60°

72° | 40°

61° | 45°
Labor Day

72° | 46°

69° | 46°
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BETA PHOTO: Steort's Ridge is on the arete. East Dihedrals is...


With a short approach, long routes, and good rock this is a great area for beginning trad climbers, or a great place to just get out and cruise on a lazy day.

Getting There 

Driving up Big Cottonwood Canyon you will come to the Storm Mountain Picnic Area (about 2.8 miles up canyon). Parking is up to your personal preference, along the road, a pullout a bit further, the picnic area itself. Either way, the formation is across the road from the Storm Mountain Picnic Area (on the south side of the canyon.) Locate the Storm Mountain Trail, follow the trail southward, after 5 minutes of walking (approx.)you will see the Dead Snag crag to the west, drop down to the right, cross the creek and make your way to the base. Total approach time is about 15 minutes tops.

Alternately, Park on the right across from Storm Mountain Picnic Area. Walk back down the canyon 100 yards or so until you pass a rocky gully/stream on your left (there is a culvert under the road). Just past the stream, scramble up the steep rock steps into the woods to a trail. Follow the trail for about 10 minutes (ignore side trails) until you reach the cliff base. Parallel the cliff (going climbers left/uphill) past a small clearing with signs of camp fires until you get to the base of the arete where Sterots' Ridge begins.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.1 miles from here

15 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Dead Snag:
East Dihedrals   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Steorts' Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Jig's Up   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 380'   
Die Another Day   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Dead Snag Direttissima   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   
Call Me Slim   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Ad Lib   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 55'   
Social Engineering   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Force of Nature   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Browse More Classics in The Dead Snag

Featured Route For The Dead Snag
Janie just above the crux on Social Engineering.

Social Engineering 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Dead Snag
This is the left-most of the three parallel thin crack systems starting off a ledge about 30 feet off the ground on the north face of Dead Snag crag. Social Engineering starts by face climbing straight up past the left-most of the pair of bolts that protect access to the ledge (the right-most bolt marks the start of Call Me Slim). From the ledge, take the broken-looking crack on the left to get established in the nice thin crack above. Finger jamming leads to a break below a bulging bolt-prot...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of The Dead Snag Slideshow Add Photo
Dead Snag w/o lines
BETA PHOTO: Dead Snag w/o lines
The Dead Snag cliff from the trail across the road...
BETA PHOTO: The Dead Snag cliff from the trail across the road...
The Dead Snag
BETA PHOTO: The Dead Snag

Comments on The Dead Snag Add Comment
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By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Mar 21, 2007
Just a sampling of history from Gottman's guide from 1979:
"The Alpenbock Club was active in this area which they called the Astronaut Arete."
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jul 4, 2011
The rock type here takes a little while to get used to if you've never climbed on it before.
By pdubz
Jul 2, 2012
Found a piece of anchoring equipment yesterday at the top rap station. ID it and it's yours.
By tenesmus
Jul 30, 2015
What time of day to those North Facing routes go into summer shade?
By ddriver
From: SLC
Jul 30, 2015
Will depend on the month, but in July the leader will get sun directly in the face by 12:30 or 1, making visibility problematic. By 3 or so the base (but not the routes) starts to come back into shade and the conditions improve enough to go for it.
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