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John's Tower
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The Day Saver 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Cedar Wright and Nelissa Milfeld
Page Views: 568
Submitted By: nelissam on Jul 26, 2012

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

The Day Saver description 

We hiked around for what seemed like hours in the hot sun trying to find a route. We relied on on our leader, who lead us in circles, and ended back at John's Tower. Exhausted, sweaty, and unmotivated, we stared at the wall hoping to find something to lift our spirits. Luckily, The Day Saver saved the day with a siren's song of first ascent glory.

Start off on thin, dicey, face climbing and grab a few shakes on some hand jams. Lieback up to a horizontal break and move left on flaring jams. Power up on side-pulls to a distant, marginal, finger lock. Fight the pump up a steep hand crack. Build an anchor with three pieces using skills you learned by reading "Freedom of the Hills" cover-to-cover. You will find bolted anchors about 45-50 feet to your right.

Location 

To be edited in.

Protection 

Mostly thin and a #5 Camalot, which nicely protects the traverse left.


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By Casey McTaggart
From: boulder, co
Aug 2, 2012

Nice find and sick sending by the FAers. Really fun route! Harder than it looks.