Lee sets up at Dark Parking Lots, 5.12b
Are you sick and tired of baking in the hot Tatooine sun with these Goody-Two-Shoes who keep telling you that it's not O.K. to get angry and wipe out an entire village of Sand People just because you're having a bad day?
You, my young friend, need to step on over to The Dark Side. This is the premier Spearfish Canyon crag if you are seeking shade and relief from hot, summer days and want to crank on some of the most bullet-proof rock in the area.
Tis best to park in the Sunshine Wall Parking lot which is 18.4 light years (O.K. miles) up Spearfish Canyon if you are traveling from Spearfish or 7.8 miles if you are traveling from Lead.
Either way you're going to go past the Cheyenne Crossing store, which I suggest you stop and get stocked up with water, candy bars and take a bathroom break before heading to the climbing areas past this last outpost of civilization.
After driving away from Cheyenne Crossing (heading towards Newcastle on Highway 85) you will travel for approximately 1.2 miles until you reach a large pullout on the left hand side of the road. Please park far away from the bridge that leads to the private residence.
Get out of your vehicle and start walking down the canyon as if you were heading back to Cheyenne Crossing. Go past a wooden guardrail and past a couple of houses which are located in the valley below the paved road you are walking on. Once you get past the entrance to the private, gravel road, which these houses are located on, start looking down toward the creek. The trail from the highway is hidden within some tall grass. If you can't find this part of the trail from the road, look for a primitive wooden bridge that crosses the creek. Cross the creek carefully and start walking uphill.
Your journey will take you through what appears to be the forest of Endor. There will be tons of ferns and what appears to be acres of lush, green moss that resembles a shag carpet as it spill down the hillsides. Please stay on the trail the best you can! In some sections you will have to go around and over some fallen trees.
This area is a unique habitat for some plants that probably don't grow in many places within Spearfish Canyon. Please respect the flora! Near the top of the trail you'll run into what appears to be piles of rock that form up into a wall. Once you reach the road at the end of the trail, head left to go to the Wild West Wall and The Goldmine...however, if you're a Jedi in training, who is simply pissed at the worlds and wants to get on some stellar climbs...take a right and head to The Dark Side. We have cookies.
Weather station 5.0 miles from here
38 Total Routes
['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',28],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Dark Side
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Dark Side:
Featured Route For The Dark Side
Dead Man's Hand 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b SD
: Spearfish Canyon
: ... : Wild West Wall
This route is rated 5.10b. Apparently it's a classic...and I have no idea why. Maybe its the 5th class scramble you need to embark on before you even rope up for the climb. Maybe it's the wild opening moves that give you an instant sensation of exposure. Maybe its the bullet proof rock that contains a plethora of perfect pockets of all sizes along with every type of imaginable hold that you can sink your hands, feet and teeth into. Maybe its the fact that it has hella fun moves and multiple crux...[more] Browse More Classics in SD
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