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The Dark Side 

5.11b

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
FA: Doug Crosby, 1990
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 31, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This is a nice, often overlooked, route in this area. Stick clip the first bolt. Climb up passing the first bolt to reach a shallow, short, right facing dihedral. Make a few stemming moves and continue up the face and mantle up on to a large stance in the middle of the route. Clip the bolt above the ledge and head straight up the bulge on a few crimps to reach a slot from which to clip the bolt at the lip of the bulge (crux). High step and rock up to gain a stance. The climbing eases up to the finish.


Location 

This is the sport route located just to the right of Leave It to Jesus, 5.11c.


Protection 

7 bolts, shuts.



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By S. Neoh
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c

Climbs better than it looks, which was a nice surprise for me. A good route to break into on-sighting at the 11b level.