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Routes in The Dark Angel Buttress
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Crocodile Wrestling, aka. Crocodile Scales T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dark Angel, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Joshua Reinig, Chris Norwood |
| Page Views: | 2,202 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Joshua Reinig on Feb 15, 2015 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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DAB
The Dark Angel AKA The Dark Angel Buttress Direct, is the obvious striking splitter system running up the entirety of the Dark Angel Buttress. Holy Shit Wow what a line, is all I have to say about this one!!!
Begin with 60m 4th class scramble up toe of buttress, shooting for large tree on climbers right just before climbing steepens and real first pitch begins.
P1. Climb (The Chute) steep 5.6 50m varied pitch, will lead you to a large sloping terrace/ledge with fixed red webbing around the large mountain mahogany.
P2. Fun looking straight forward pitch on right side of orangish tower, turns into awkward but exciting blocky problem solving up 5.8 terrain. Follow this for 50m to base of super splitter pitch three.
P3. The ultimate finger crack splitter to the max pitch. Sustained 5.8 crack/flake quickly turns into sustained never ending perfect locks for 130' 5.9!!!
This pitch looks as if this crack is going to pinch out and disappear but just trust in the send and it will open up beautifully.
P4. Follow easy low angle bush filled chimney to small roof. Pull easy 5.5 roof out of chimney via super clean 5.5 fist to hand crack with jug haul on left. This pitch is 40m long and takes you to The Grand Terrace high on the DAB.
P5. This Is The Pitch!!! Super proud positioning and climbing!!!
From The Grand Terrace you are given 8 options or different variations, the easiest being 5.4 chimney escape on right side of The Grand Terrace. The real climbing however takes you out the ever imposing overhanging headwall block to the left of The Grand Terrace.
Perfect 5.6R will get you stepping out into the unknown! Now keep climbing left via perfect ever steepening and very exposed knobs, passing the perfect overhung finger-fist crack. As you step around the corner you will be rewarded looking up at a perfect varied finger to hand crack in a steep slightly overhung corner, 5.10a crux!! The entire climb comes down to that last 50' of surreal splitter crack climbing!!!
Begin with 60m 4th class scramble up toe of buttress, shooting for large tree on climbers right just before climbing steepens and real first pitch begins.
P1. Climb (The Chute) steep 5.6 50m varied pitch, will lead you to a large sloping terrace/ledge with fixed red webbing around the large mountain mahogany.
P2. Fun looking straight forward pitch on right side of orangish tower, turns into awkward but exciting blocky problem solving up 5.8 terrain. Follow this for 50m to base of super splitter pitch three.
P3. The ultimate finger crack splitter to the max pitch. Sustained 5.8 crack/flake quickly turns into sustained never ending perfect locks for 130' 5.9!!!
This pitch looks as if this crack is going to pinch out and disappear but just trust in the send and it will open up beautifully.
P4. Follow easy low angle bush filled chimney to small roof. Pull easy 5.5 roof out of chimney via super clean 5.5 fist to hand crack with jug haul on left. This pitch is 40m long and takes you to The Grand Terrace high on the DAB.
P5. This Is The Pitch!!! Super proud positioning and climbing!!!
From The Grand Terrace you are given 8 options or different variations, the easiest being 5.4 chimney escape on right side of The Grand Terrace. The real climbing however takes you out the ever imposing overhanging headwall block to the left of The Grand Terrace.
Perfect 5.6R will get you stepping out into the unknown! Now keep climbing left via perfect ever steepening and very exposed knobs, passing the perfect overhung finger-fist crack. As you step around the corner you will be rewarded looking up at a perfect varied finger to hand crack in a steep slightly overhung corner, 5.10a crux!! The entire climb comes down to that last 50' of surreal splitter crack climbing!!!
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