The Dangler WI5 M7-
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | WI4-5 M5+ [details] |
| FA: | Kevin Cooper and Forest Nobele, 1998 |
| Season: | Jan - March? |
| Submitted By: | claramie on Dec 2, 2007 |
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2/13/12.
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Description Located to the right of the main flow is a slightly less than vertical, right-facing dihedral. The rating is from the RMNP High Mtn book.
Make your way up this for 45 feet to the ledge. A belay can be made here to lessen drag or just top it out.
From the ledge, a 4-5" crack heads to the roof at the top. An ice dagger formed here but was not in when we climbed Dec. 1, '07.
Location This is located to the right of the main flow in a right-facing dihedral that goes to the ledge with the 4" crack above it.
Protection TR - walk around and past the main flow anchor area. Anchor from a tree.
It could be lead on gear with small - medium nuts, a few cams (up to # C4), and maybe a stubby or two if the ice is in.
Victoria getting a lap with some sweet, leashless ...
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Finally dried up.
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Getting to the rock. Bring big gear (#5 or @...
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Multiple variations to surmount the block.
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I removed a couple super loose blocks at the top. ...
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Marissa lapping it.
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The Dangler on 3/15/12.
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By Brandon Groza
From: Loveland, CO
Feb 28, 2012
rating: WI4 M4-
| Great climb. Top (in its current condition) is much easier than it looks from the ground. I brought a #4 C4 which was too small. Consider bigger gear if you want to seal it up. Otherwise a screw in the top of the ice seems sufficient as it's probably only 5.7/8 to the top of the block. |
By Tom Willard
Mar 16, 2012
| I had an old #4.5 (new #5) Camalot and it was too small for the crack. An old #5 Camalot would be perfect. You can also get a small nut or a #1 blue TCU in the small crack to the left.
Great fun but pretty bad rope drag! |
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