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e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)
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Welcome to the Gunks 

The Dangler 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kevin Bein 1978
Page Views: 12,842
Submitted By: JSH on Nov 25, 2006
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Description 

This pitch is a variation to Something Interesting or Three Pines. It begins at the GT ledge.

Establish a belay on the right side of the large alcove above Something Interesting. From the obvious left-facing corner, hand traverse out to the hanging arete (hand-sized cams for protection are recommended, however pumpy they may be to place). Pull the lip in an interesting mantle move, and head up to easier ground.

The pitch has been graded everywhere from 5.8+ to 5.10a. Do it and decide for yourself! Or do it without regard to the grade, and enjoy the aesthetic pleasure of just being ... out there.


Location 

Proceed to the base of the Mac Wall; look up. That's "it".


Protection 

Mostly hand-sized cams, to a #3. Double ropes may make the route considerably more pleasant for your second.

A camera, for the belayer, is also a good idea (even better, a third party to take pictures).



Photos of The Dangler Slideshow Add Photo
Bill Pierson styling the Gunks' "The Dangler," 5.10a. <br /> <br />Photo by Chris Vultaggio  <br />
Bill Pierson styling the Gunks' "The Dangler," 5.1...
JAG having fun on The Dangler.
JAG having fun on The Dangler.
love this climb
love this climb
I put the first Dangler pic up here years ago... realized how cliche it was... took it down... and now here I am again... <br /> <br />Three Pines is a nice climb... but this isn't worth doing twice.
I put the first Dangler pic up here years ago... r...
Carter preparing for the pullup
Carter preparing for the pullup
Carter after the pullup
Carter after the pullup
Eric J (16)... this is why it's called the Dangler
Eric J (16)... this is why it's called the Dangler
Carter on the Dangler
Carter on the Dangler
right heel and your out
right heel and your out
Aaron getting it done.
Aaron getting it done.
A nice finish.
A nice finish.
Mark Arrow leading the Dangler
Mark Arrow leading the Dangler
placing my last piece a bd .75 or green dragon cam
placing my last piece a bd .75 or green dragon cam...
Mark Arrow on the Dangler
Mark Arrow on the Dangler
Eric J @ the start of the Dangler.
Eric J @ the start of the Dangler.
Ben, Hans and Mark Arrow at the belay for the Dangler.
Ben, Hans and Mark Arrow at the belay for the Dang...
Eric on the final heel hook.
Eric on the final heel hook.
Lubos negotiating the Dangler.
Lubos negotiating the Dangler.
Carter Mandrik, summer of 1993
Carter Mandrik, summer of 1993
Comments on The Dangler Add Comment
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By eric larson
From: aurora, co
Feb 6, 2009

worth doing once for a badass photo to show your mother!

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Aug 29, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I whole-heartedly agree. For 10 feet of actual climbing and a photo op that's become a Gunks cliche, I don't think it's entirely worth the approach.

By vanishing spy
Sep 25, 2009

I definitely disagree with the above posts. Something Interesting or Three Pines are great approaches and worth climbing in their own right, regardless of their grade. That ledge is awesome just to hangout on and enjoy the party. The Dangler is a great fun way to finish off those climbs even if you forget your camera.

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Good Gear, Fun moves and a great finish to Something Interesting. Now I need to go back and do it with a little more "style"!

By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Jul 22, 2011

Sure, it's short. Sure, the photo is a bit cliche. BUT, i loved it. Was very intimidated standing on the ledge looking out toward the point, but once i sunk that first piece and started moving i thought it was some pretty damn exciting climbing. And yes, i did get the photo to show my mum.

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jun 26, 2012

we all love the dangler...