Type: Trad, Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches
FA: Joe Lackey, Ron Dawson, Zach Lesch-Huie
Page Views: 3,406 total · 17/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Oct 25, 2007
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


16 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Shortoff Mountain South - Falcon Closure Lifted for 2021 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A stimulating climb that has a little bit of everything (except splitter crack climbing, of course). Save this one for cold temps, as it bakes in the sun most of the day and crimping the thin, glassy quartz edges may not feel so nice!
P1- Look for the tiny edges and crimp up the slabby face, passing a line of bolts (book says 5, I only remember 4). Take care between the first and second, as you will be in groundfall terrain for a minute from a ways up. Keep your eyes open at the third bolt and find a way to move up AND reach the next clip. After the bolts end, follow a short right-facing corner with marginal gear. Pull onto the face to the left and into a left-facing corner, eventually moving back right again onto the face. Locate a small stance with a horizontal that will eat .75-1" gear and belay. NOTE: In the opinion of me (and everyone else I know who's climbed the route), the crux is a scorchin' sandbag! More like 11a/b. Still intriguing though. 5.10c, 120'.
P2- Continue straight up the middle of the face in a finger crack/water groove. Locate a rusty piton about 10' beneath the large roof, clip it, and climb up. Pull the roof at the obvious horizontal. Great moves! Continue up easier terrain to a roomy belay ledge. 5.9+, 180'.
P3- Climb a short headwall right off the belay, and continue up easy terrain to the top of the cliff. 5.7, 100'.

Location Suggest change

Shortoff South. The route is located just left of the Little Corner/Julia corner system. Look for a slabby face sporting bolts.

Protection Suggest change

Set of stoppers, double set of cams from 00 TCU-#1 camalot, 1 #2 camalot.
First pitch has a few bolts.

Photos

- No Photos -
loading