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Shortoff Mountain
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Unsorted Routes:

The Dancing Outlaw 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Joe Lackey, Ron Dawson, Zach Lesch-Huie
Page Views: 974
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Oct 25, 2007

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Description 

A stimulating climb that has a little bit of everything (except splitter crack climbing, of course). Save this one for cold temps, as it bakes in the sun most of the day and crimping the thin, glassy quartz edges may not feel so nice!
P1- Look for the tiny edges and crimp up the slabby face, passing a line of bolts (book says 5, I only remember 4). Take care between the first and second, as you will be in groundfall terrain for a minute from a ways up. Keep your eyes open at the third bolt and find a way to move up AND reach the next clip. After the bolts end, follow a short right-facing corner with marginal gear. Pull onto the face to the left and into a left-facing corner, eventually moving back right again onto the face. Locate a small stance with a horizontal that will eat .75-1" gear and belay. NOTE: In the opinion of me (and everyone else I know who's climbed the route), the crux is a scorchin' sandbag! More like 11a/b. Still intriguing though. 5.10c, 120'.
P2- Continue straight up the middle of the face in a finger crack/water groove. Locate a rusty piton about 10' beneath the large roof, clip it, and climb up. Pull the roof at the obvious horizontal. Great moves! Continue up easier terrain to a roomy belay ledge. 5.9+, 180'.
P3- Climb a short headwall right off the belay, and continue up easy terrain to the top of the cliff. 5.7, 100'.


Location 

Shortoff South. The route is located just left of the Little Corner/Julia corner system. Look for a slabby face sporting bolts.


Protection 

Set of stoppers, double set of cams from 00 TCU-#1 camalot, 1 #2 camalot.
First pitch has a few bolts.



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By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Dec 6, 2007

Nick, thanks for calling P1 a sandbag - I've always thought it was damn hard for 5.10c. Nice to know others agree!

I've also never thought of it as worth a PG-13 rating - as I remember, gear is easily available almost anywhere except below the P2 roof, but gear can be found there with a little work (I've always wanted to back up the pin). On P1, there is a slot for a yellow TCU/Alien between bolts 1 and 2, and after the last bolt the climbing eases considerably - from 5.10 (or 11!) to 5.6. I never recall feeling like I wanted gear but couldn't get it... but maybe I was just psyched to be done with the crux!

I've wandered around looking for the P1 belay stance before. There are several ledges and stances. As I recall, if you find a ledge with enough gear for an anchor, just stop and belay - the higher ledges are a little sparse when it comes to gear (I remember downclimbing).

The roof on P2 is wild and awesome - everyone I've climbed the route with has pulled over with a huge grin! Go enjoy!

By Zachary Lesch-Huie
May 18, 2008

I'm contributing to this discussion a bit late, but I thought I'd confirm the beta offered by the entry above and maybe offer an interesting first ascent tidbit.

The space between the first and second bolts is filled by a bomber yellow Metolius cam. There's a nice slot that fits a cam pretty nicely, so be sure to bring that cam along.

The first bolt was actually drilled by hanging on this cam (you can 5th class to the placement from the gulley on the right). Joe hand-drilled the rest of the bolts from hooks.

I don't know about the .10c being sandbag...

Cheers!

By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
May 18, 2008

Well I tried it twice, both times in the blazing hot sun... I dunno. It felt hard to me. 10+ for sure! Nice route.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 5, 2011

I thought 10c was pretty accurate. It does take a bit of figuring out in one short section, and may be more difficult if you are short. I felt like you could down climb out of the crux as many times as you wanted to figure it out. I placed a .4 camalot between bolts 1 and 2 in the same horizontal. It fit nicely and would hold a fall for sure. I would not call the gear above the crux marginal, there is some good key-holed nut placements and tri-cam placements above the bolts. You can definitely back the P2 pin up with a red C3 and as soon as you step up there is gear below the roof. The only part I thought was questionable about the route was some loose rock, but that should be expected with a low traveled route. Pulled a phone book sized block off at the crux and there is a bunch of choss around and below the P2 roof (right side of crack below roof and far left side of roof). Make sure your knocking before weighting some of that stuff. There is a really nice P1 belay if you step left into the Bush Babies alcove right after you get above the moss pad above the corner but below the crack of P2.

By Robb Kranz
May 21, 2012

This line should see more traffic. Gear's all there, and called out in other comments. The .10c rating felt right, and the crux does take some figuring out, but those moves are fun, and pretty novel for Linville. The roof protects well with some small stuff and is a blast to pull over.

By J2Y
Oct 7, 2013

So after several attempts at first pitch I'm confident the first pitch is 11a ... Just is what it is. But I love climbing it as the reward is the fantastic second pitch where the roof, IMO, is soft 5.9.