Start sitting down with both hands on crimps just above the lip. The left hand crimp is on the far side of the lip/roof. The starting right crimp is approximately 18 inches to the right of that, just above the lip. Make big moves alternating left and right, using the side-pulls, keeping compressed. Keep this alternating movement, while establishing your feet above the lip, and when you can, using a left hand side-pull with thumb catch and right hand high up on the right corner, set your feet, backstep on the starting crimp and throw up and over the center for a flat shelf.... or just continue tick tacking up. See the photos for body position beta.
This is on the right side of the south face of the Griddle Block.
The Dakota River Forge on the Griddle Block.
Moving right into the business of the problem.
The span required for the sidepull tick tacks.
The Dakota River Forge bottom starting holds.
Moving into the right hand sidepulls.
Hitting the upper right hand sidepulls.
|By Jared LaVacque|
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Jan 4, 2014
Instead of starting on both crimps, start matched only on the left hand crimp. Move up to the first left hand side-pull and then bump to the second left hand side-pull(while your right hand is still on the crimp), move your feet up to patina scabs and lunge to the highest right hand side-pull, set your feet and back step the starting crimp and then lunge to the lip. This version eliminates the compression, avoids the lowest right hand side-pull and softens the grade to V5+/V6-, still remaining quality movement with a nice foot-cutting lunge.