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Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cryptic Trip T 
Daddy, The T 
Good Heavens T 
Mummy, The T 
Open Book, The T 
Out of sight out of mind T 
Prow, The T 
S. D. Modiano T 
Turkey Beard T 

The Daddy 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Art Williams, Mike Holloway - 1972
Page Views: 20,067
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Nov 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (118)
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Start of P2 - The Daddy 5.6

Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Long, steep and exposed. For the east this is a big route for the grade.

The second and last pitches are the best. The first pitch is so-so, the third pitch is short, and the fourth pitch is a route finding conundrum.

But the views are amazing, the rock is solid. The belays are all natural and the top out is absolutely fantastic.

I was so frazzled after leading this that I had to back off a 5.5 later that day.

This is definitely a classic route.

Location 

Across the Ampitheater from the Prow. Head down the Ampitheater and keep toward the southern face. Go past the Mummy and around the corner until you can see a wide, left facing flake above the treeline. This is the top of the first pitch. Start on easy ground below the flake/crack.

Walk off to the left.

Protection 

Standard NC rack. No fixed anchors.


Photos of The Daddy Slideshow Add Photo
Topo of route.  Stretch the rope, use long draws and find belays where appropriate.
BETA PHOTO: Topo of route. Stretch the rope, use long draws a...
Free Solo: 23 minutes! Looking down the Route after the corner on the last Pitch!
Free Solo: 23 minutes! Looking down the Route afte...
I take a little breather midway through leading the 5.8 variation on P3 of the Daddy.  This is much nicer climbing than the easier zig-zag traverse alternative.
I take a little breather midway through leading th...
View from the top of the Daddy, looking at the Gold Coast
View from the top of the Daddy, looking at the Gol...
Top pitch of the Daddy. 4th or 5th pitch depending on how you climb the route.
BETA PHOTO: Top pitch of the Daddy. 4th or 5th pitch depending...
The Daddy. 5.6
The Daddy. 5.6
Me seconding P4 of the Daddy with my partner belaying right below the P5 corner.
Me seconding P4 of the Daddy with my partner belay...
Matthew on pitch 4 of The Daddy
Matthew on pitch 4 of The Daddy
 enjoying the exposure on p4
enjoying the exposure on p4
Matthew on pitch 2 of The Daddy
Matthew on pitch 2 of The Daddy
Climber approaching belay station 2 on The Daddy.
Climber approaching belay station 2 on The Daddy.
Following the last pitch of The Daddy
Following the last pitch of The Daddy
Climbing under the stone below the last pitch of the daddy.  Good place to relax and take shelter from the wind.
Climbing under the stone below the last pitch of t...
Climbers on P2(?) of The Daddy
BETA PHOTO: Climbers on P2(?) of The Daddy
Looking at the last pitch
Looking at the last pitch
Looking down the top pitch of the Daddy.
Looking down the top pitch of the Daddy.
My wife having fun in NC
My wife having fun in NC

Comments on The Daddy Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 6, 2014
By scoTt Millbern
From: Langenfeld, Germany
Apr 30, 2007

P4 is a little runout, but easy climbing. P2 and P3 can be linked if you are very careful about rope drag and don't put any pro in on the 5.3 P3.

This is one of my favorite climbs. Awesome climb to take a new climber on. Not too exposed, great gear, fun moves, beautiful views!
scoTt
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jun 4, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is truly a phenomenal route, not to be missed. Rock quality is great and the climbing is fun from start to finish. The views from the upper belays and topout will stay with you.

If you want to make the climb even more exciting (and avoid some boring traverses), take the direct line on P3 -- go straight up from the belay ledge. This short variation goes at 5.8 and it lives up to the grade. It also makes linking P2 and P3 a very easy proposition.
By Joey Wolfe
Jan 6, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

A must do for the leader of any level(well at least 5.6 leaders and up). Real adventure climbing with views big enough to swallow you whole. Don't forget to belay while drooling over the Gold Coast. Go as light as possible and plan to climb out unless you are doing a link up. This climb is alot of fun.
By ziggy
Nov 17, 2009

well worth the hike. if you decide to descend the gully after topping out then it is much easier to climb back out on "The Prow" as opposed to hiking back up the gully.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
May 7, 2010

Nice setting, but not much climbing. The Mummy is a much better line.
By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Jun 15, 2010

Going to agree with Tom Caldwell. A better day that would keep things interesting would be to Climb the Mummy and rap down to the Ledge at the end of pitch 3 of The Daddy and climb out...just follow the trail along the ridge to get back.

Pitch 1 -3 are uninteresting if you are a more experienced leader IMHO

As of 6/13/2010 there is some cord at the end of Pitch 2 with 2 biner's for what i presumed was someone bailing off. I left them there.

T
By Christopher Snipes
Jul 5, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Very fun climb with some of the best views to be had in the east (save for Whiteside Mtn). Last two pitches were the best and made the whole climb. P5 made the climb. I did not like belaying from "the pod" at the top of P4, but the it was a safe belay.... Just me

There was a sling and a biner around a tree about 30 ft up the first pitch. Used it but left it behind. There was also a cam just below the crack on P5. It was pretty frayed, and I payed no attention to it. My partner placed a cam right next to it and moved on.

The exposure was vast and the views of the gorge and surrounding ridges were great!
By David Logan
From: Tuscaloosa, Al
Aug 20, 2010

For the approach from the Sea To Summit trail, the book Selected Climbs in North Carolina says to look for a pine tree with a white dot on it, and take the trail to the right. There is no tree with a white dot. Just look for a BIG white quartzite rock on the trail. The rock is probably the size of a small cooler. The next turn off is a left next to a huge rock you hope about 3 feet to get on top of, where the first view of the Amphitheater is. As of 8/14/10 there was some rocks stacked neatly on this rock. The trail is to the left and very overgrown and exposed. This trail takes you right to the top of The Daddy.
By Blake Allen Green
Apr 5, 2011

Can be done as three long pitches if you manage the gear and rope well. Pitches 2 and 4 are my favorites if you're doing it the five pitch method. Also, the direct variation on pitch three saves a lot of time and rope drag and is probably only 5.7ish. Take the arete instead of the gully on pitch 4 for some pretty thrilling exposure.
By Kai Troester
From: Pepperell, MA
Aug 1, 2011

I did this climb in 2005. I intended to climb the 5.8 shortcut for P3, not realizing that I started on the belay atop P3 (P3 is really short, IMO). I kept going and soon realized that I might be off. The climbing was run out 5.8. I passed a sling, where someone likely bailed. Eventually I reached the top. I then realized that I climbed a line parallel to P4 and P5.

I doubt this was a FFA, though, but I'll keep my eyes open if tis variation ever appears in a guide.
By ryanh0504
Oct 6, 2011

this climb is a ton of fun! first multi-pich for me
By TKHouse
Oct 25, 2011

Fantastic climb. The description is correct, pitches two and five are clearly the best. Pitch three was quite a disappointment, only two or three grade five moves, no need to protect. I ran a little short trying to link pitches two and three with my 60m rope.

I belayed just below the corner after pitch four, not sure if this is the typical belay spot but was very secure. Pitch four is actually pretty good rock as well, I took the left face and enjoyed it. There's a fixed cam (purple metolius?) up there on pitch four if someone's particularly bored... The pitch five corner is beautiful.
By Benjamin S.
From: Fairview (Nashville), TN
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I climbed The Daddy again on Monday, and noticed a few blocks and flakes that used to be solid sounded very hollow, or even moved on this trip. One block in particular after the 4th pitch traverse used to be my last placement before a little runout bulge...but not this time; I almost pulled it off with my hand. Just a reminder, to myself, that even placements that I've used a dozen times should still be scrutinized...or my belayer could be wearing a microwave size rock on his/her head.

On a side note, whoever took a dump, mid-trail, this weekend on the "pitch 3" grassy traverse(as opposed to the direct 5.8 variation)...I have your DNA on my climbing shoe. I'm having it tested and will find out where you live, and return the favor in the floorboard of your car.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Apr 10, 2012

By Far the Best route of its grade in the state!! Linville Adventure climbing at its finest!! This was one of my first big multi-pitches long ago, came back and rope solo'd, and lastly free solo'd it (23 minutes from base to summit). Full Circle! A wonderful route which definitely has a place in many NC Climbers hearts!! Highly Recommend it for anyone visiting the Nc and looking for some true old school backcountry climbing!

  • **CLASSIC***
By Nick Byrd
Apr 16, 2012

Great fun! Really felt exposed but the climbing was really solid and there was lots of pro. The flake on pitch two was my favorite part of the climb. Had lunch in the belay 4 pod, should have taken the break at 3rd belay. As for Pitch 4, just look at the topo several times so that you don't get lost... we had no issues after others warned us.
By Cameron Kahill
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Great route I absolutely loved it. The hike in is awful, but it is worth it. Also try doing it in two pitches. It just makes it that much better.
By photocodo
From: Hendersonville, NC
Sep 2, 2012

excellent climb. The decent down the gulley was a nice scramble and totally worth it. Took us about 1.5hrs from parking lot to base of climb and about 1.5hrs from top of climb back to parking lot. Do your research when it comes to the approach if you havent been there before, its kind of tricky.
By Cres Simpson
From: Birmingham, AL
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Did the Daddy, the Mummy, and the Prow back-to-back on Sunday (10/14). It was a bit overcast but other than that amazing weather and an absolutely awesome day of climbing.

I decided to do the 5.8 direct variation of P3 since I had been on it before and traversing the ledge seemed less fun. It's really only 2-3 moves of well-protected 5.8 and then it becomes easy 5.5 to the P3 belay. That said, there wasn't any pro for me above the 5.8 section, so be careful not to misstep and fall close to the P3 belay -- you'll end up decking back next to your partner on the P2 ledge.

I think linking P2/P3 with the direct variation would make for a great line and will plan to do that next time.
By Shadrock
From: Athens, GA
Nov 26, 2012

Noticed that there were a lot of rap slings on the route (e.g. tree on top of P2, tree on P3 ledge, tree at top...) and I'm wondering if you can link these to the base on a single 60m. I've got a few long training days coming up and would love to avoid the standard "slot canyon" rappel.
By RebeccaJD
From: Cary, North Carolina
Apr 15, 2013

Great route. I was glad to have the route description onhand to make sure I was going to right way on a few pitches. (But I have a crappy memory.) The walk-off is not entirely straightforward. It wanders a bit, and is brushy in spots, and takes you very close to the edge of the cliff in places. I personally would not want to do this in the dark and ALWAYS bring a headlamp to the Ampitheatre area. Another tip: If you hike in with a pack that you are going to leave (so you don't have to hike in with your harness and rack on), and you are going to top out and hike out, don't bring your pack all the way down to the start of the descent gully. Instead, leave it higher up, like within a few hundred yards of the first campsite on the descent trail to the Ampitheatre. The reason why is that after you top out, the trail doesn't take you back to the descent gully, but rather higher up. If you leave your pack higher up the main descent trail to the Ampitheatre area, you don't have to hike back down to it. Also update from Shadrock's last comment: I didn't see any rap slings. Someone must have taken them.
By mattjohnson
From: Laurens, SC
Jun 6, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Be careful when topping out on the last pitch, there is some loose rock up there