Possibly the most classic hard 11 at Rumney? You be the judge. While you are climbing this route, remember that it's been climbed barefoot!
This route has multiple sections of hard climbing, all of which offer very unique flow over stunning rock features with eye-popping exposure.
Start this affair on a slab of rock below the steep trail that heads to upper Orange Crush, beneath the roof capping a left-facing corner.
Reach over the void, clip the first bolt and easily traverse over to the corner. Make technical (but not physically difficult) moves rightward across the face to gain the arete, and a stance.
Step back onto the arete, master this, then tackle the steep, but short face with stout, fingery moves to gain a bucket in a horizontal on the right side of the arete. Move around to the right and gain the nice ledge shared with multiple other routes.
Move back left onto the upper face and climb through some steep rock on positive holds to an easy mantle, depositing you at comfortable stance at the base of the crux.
(Get a good shake, as the climbing above is sustained, and is considered the techinical crux of the route.)
Delicately move up the slabby face to a very distinct India-shaped hold. Figure out how to utilize it, move past it, then gain the upper left-facing corner for the remaining, pumpy climbing to the anchors.
On the approach trail/ladder to the upper Orange Crush. The Crusher starts on a slab behind some small boulders beneath the large roof cappping the left-facing corner.
13 bolts and chains. Long Runners and back-cleaning are helpful on some of the first bolts.
Pulling over the top of the arete - climber - Patr... lily in the starting corner
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Feb 11, 2010
FA/98 Ward Smith..a killer route.. one of the best hard 11s at Rumney IMO
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
May 26, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
This thing is HARD! super fun and interesting... i would not cry sandbag but this is as hard as i can call 11d you must earn it for sure!