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{10} Mordor
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Angle of the Dangle T,S 
Crumbling, The S 
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Route 66 S 
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The Crumbling 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Season: Seeps a bit during extremely wet periods
Page Views: 845
Submitted By: Eric Schnepel on May 12, 2011

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The Crumbling

Description 

Hard from the start, this line commonly has a few cheater stones stacked up to allow the shorter folks to reach the starting pinch and sidepull. Getting to the first bolt feels like an easy V4 boulder problem leading to a giant flake-jug. From here it is just a matter of holding it together through the next 7 bolts of fun and straightforward climbing on positive edges and sidepulls. The final bulge offers one more brief challenge before the anchors can be clipped from a great jug. There is a large ledge slightly off route to the right towards the top. If you traverse over and get a full recovery before pulling the final bulge, the route goes at more like 11d from what I've heard. However, the moves are very doable without this rest and make for a full value 12a.


Location 

This route starts on the lava looking rock in the cave and ascends a fairly steep face through a bulge. It always has a yellow draw fixed to the second bolt.


Protection 

8 bolts or so. Stick Clip is basically mandatory.



Photos of The Crumbling Slideshow Add Photo
Kevbone on the crumbling.  2005
Kevbone on the crumbling. 2005
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By Alex Shainman
From: the best place right now!
Mar 26, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Half of the bolts on this rig are bad. The last is backed out almost 1/2" (hole also drilled improperly at an off-angle) and others are loosening and at least one stud is wiggly loose in the hole. The bottom biner on the yellow "fixed" draw is heavily worn.

By another Chad
Aug 4, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The stud that was coming out has been replaced.


Chad