The Crumbling  5.12a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Season:  Seeps a bit during extremely wet periods Submitted By:  Eric Schnepel on May 12, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The Crumbling

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Description 

Hard from the start, this line commonly has a few cheater stones stacked up to allow the shorter folks to reach the starting pinch and sidepull. Getting to the first bolt feels like an easy V4 boulder problem leading to a giant flake-jug. From here it is just a matter of holding it together through the next 7 bolts of fun and straightforward climbing on positive edges and sidepulls. The final bulge offers one more brief challenge before the anchors can be clipped from a great jug. There is a large ledge slightly off route to the right towards the top. If you traverse over and get a full recovery before pulling the final bulge, the route goes at more like 11d from what I've heard. However, the moves are very doable without this rest and make for a full value 12a.

Location 

This route starts on the lava looking rock in the cave and ascends a fairly steep face through a bulge. It always has a yellow draw fixed to the second bolt.

Protection 

8 bolts or so. Stick Clip is basically mandatory.