The Crucifix 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | FFA: Bob Gaines/Tommy Romero |
| Submitted By: | Dave M Snyder on Mar 5, 2011 |
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Description Climb the Bat Crack but instead of mantling at the top of the pitch, head up and then hard right to a 2 bolt anchor. From here, work your way up the smooth corner via excellent stemming / palming / crimps / slopers, busting left and right of the corner as needed. An excellent full value pitch with great position!
Location See 'The Vampire' for directions to the route. After finishing The Crucifix, continue up Field of Dreams to top out. Or, rap back to start of Crucifix & then 2 rope rap down/right of the start of the Bat Crack direct start (haven't done this).
Protection apx. 5 bolts. 2 bolt anchor to start and end the route. Small cams and nuts.
By chris righter
May 28, 2011
rating: 5.11+
| Great route. At the roof section there is a perfect cam placement and a bolt 2 feet higher. Then you have to do a bit of a committing move well above that bolt with a potential awkward fall into the dihedral. Would be nice if that bolt was moved up a little higher where there is a more logical clipping stance further away from the cam and avoiding the awkward fall potential. Just my 2 cents. Still a great route! I found Field of Dreams easier than this pitch. |
By Brian Treanor
Jun 14, 2011
rating: 5.11+
| Agree with Chris here about the placement of the bolt, but don't really feel strongly enough about it to suggest the effort of moving it. I also agree about the rating. The final traverse left to the anchor seemed miles harder than anything else on the Bat Crack, Crucifix linkup. Maybe even a sandbag at 11c? Or maybe I'm just gettin old... |
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