|(6) First Cave
A kind of theme amongst moderate trad climbs at Long Dong: hard pull with marginal gear placements over a terrible landing to a long, easy runout. You can get some gear to protect a fall early, but if you don't get a second piece before you pull into the chimney, well...
The crux is in the first 15 feet.
Continue up 4th-5th class in chimney to a scrappy dihedral. Before the crack turns into a muddy gully, step left to a big hold (long reach here) and pull flakes to the anchor. There is no gear for the traverse.
On the South Claw of the First Cave. Climb the dihedral that splits the north face.
Gear to 4"
2x glue-in bolts (2011)