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The Crimpfest Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Better Rad than Trad 
Crocodile Rock 
Dave's Dilemma 
Deceptive Slab 
Drill Sergeant 
Easy Does It 
Entourage, The 
File Drawer 
InterGalactic Fungus Pull 
Middle Parallel Space 
Planet Gnarler 
Poser Free Zone 
Right Parallel Space 
Season Opener 
Stooner's Highway 

The Crimpfest Wall 

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Location: 39.25618, -105.09877 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 1, 2001
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The Crimpfest Wall is the effective continuation of the Headstone after descending South from Rock Nazi. The wall is vertical overall, but presents several roof and corner systems. All of the routes are close to or more than 100 ft long, so bring a 60m rope or two ropes. The climbing is strenuous, thin, crimpy, technical and brilliant. Most routes are 5.12 or upper 5.11. While every route can be done with QD alone, there are some places where a Friend will ease the spook factor. I would carry a full rack of camming devices from small TCUs to # 3 or # 4 Friends. There isn't a bad route on the wall, so just bring the guns and queue up for a crimpfest.

Getting There 

From the Zinn Overlook, take a faint trail down and left, heading directly toward the most imposing crag in sight. Cross a small talus field to the base of The Headstone. Follow the trail right (South) along the Headstone until it drops underneath a large detached boulder at the base of Rock Nazi. Continue downhill for 200 ft to the base of the wall and a perfect tanning slab. Routes start in a dark gully on the left and extend rightward for 200 ft.

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Crimpfest Wall:
The Entourage   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport   
Dave's Dilemma   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Season Opener   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Crimpfest   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Planet Gnarler   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
File Drawer   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Better Rad than Trad   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport   
Browse More Classics in The Crimpfest Wall

Featured Route For The Crimpfest Wall
Richard Wright, 1 of 4.

Dave's Dilemma 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c  CO : South Platte : ... : The Crimpfest Wall
This is the third route in from the left on the Crimpfest Wall. Dave's Dilemma ascends the obvious flake/groove system. Exit the flake onto relentless and insecure crimps. I found that carrying a few TCUs along provided a measure of comfort higher up, and a Friend to start can be comforting. The TCUs can be fished into a system of horizontal slots higher up. However, with a little boldness the line goes quite well on QDs alone. The anchors have been placed at 80 feet and at 100 feet.This is a gr...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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Chris on Dave's Dilemma.
BETA PHOTO: Chris on Dave's Dilemma.
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By richard magill
Dec 17, 2001

Don't go here on a hot day. It faces southwest and broils in the sun - it is plenty warm on a sunny 45 degree day. Best reserved for sometime in the spring or fall.