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The Crimp Problem SDS 

Hueco: V5- Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 331
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Nov 17, 2012

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Description 

This is the sit start to the popular Crimp Problem. Start sitting with left hand on a positive crimp and right on an under-cling. Get you body position right and pull up to the small smile shaped crimp that marks the start of The Crimp Problem (V3). Then finish up that problem.


Location 

Just Left of Maxim in the Jelly Rock Area. Start sitting directly below The Crimp Problem on a crimp and under-cling.


Protection 

PAd and spotter.



Comments on The Crimp Problem SDS Add Comment
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By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 7, 2013

Just another example of Pway grades being all over the place. I don't see this single move adding two grades of difficulty to the original problem once you suss out the feet. Didn't even feel significantly harder at all, though it is a major improvement over the stand start.

By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Aug 27, 2013

Adjusted the grade... Now it's in line with reality.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 27, 2013

I don't mean to be argumentative, and although I do agree this route never comes to the v6 range. The consensus seems to be it is in the v5 range from the grades suggested by people of this site. Maybe we should make the listing grade more in line with the consensus of the masses?

Since I'm the original poster, I am going to change my suggested grade to v5-, because thats what I feel it is. I originally put v5-6 as the grade because that is what it has been listed as in other places.

By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Dec 10, 2013
rating: V5- 6C

Footage starts at 1:12.

By Ian McAfee
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 22, 2014
rating: V6 7A

Food for thought: Maybe the Kemple guide had different starting handholds than the current problem, the right hand undercling thingy used now looks like it may have broken and creaks quite a bit. Maybe someone else can chime in because if the move to the stand start were nontrivial I could see it getting the guidebook grade. Either way this face is a weird one for the grade discussion.

By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Apr 30, 2014
rating: V5- 6C

I think the starting move of the sit is around V5, but it's much MUCH more repeatable than the dyno. It's a hard pull off the ground, but it feels a lot more like a sure-thing than the dyno/stab to the gaston or lip.

When I could finally do V5's with some consistency all I had to do was play with the feet and the start came easily. Then it was just a matter of sticking the dyno after the sit. All in all, I can probably do the sit moves 4 out of 5 times, and the dyno/gaston about 1 in 10...