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5.8 Crack 
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Crimp and the Crush, The 
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Weight and Balance Check 

The Crimp and the Crush 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Reardon, Gary Pisano June '11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 535
Submitted By: Mike Reardon on Jun 17, 2011
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Description 

Crux is getting past the one and only bolt. Stem the pillar, clip the bolt, and suction yourself onto the slab. Move left under the bolt and pull thin crimps to the rewarding ledge. take the right hand corner of the flake passing great gear the whole way up to the Weight and Balance Check anchors.


Location 

Climb the 5.8 crack, Weight and Balance Check P1 or the 5.7 corner just to the right. This route starts left of Weight and Balance Check in between the wall and the pillar.


Protection 

1 bolt, Standard rack to 3"



Comments on The Crimp and the Crush Add Comment
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By wes calkins
Dec 17, 2012

This route is just ok. It really is just one move right at the bolt followed by some 5.6 climbing.

By Mike Reardon
Jan 6, 2013

Agreed with Wes, a bit of a one move wonder. It is better done as one long pitch, combined with the 8 crack down below, this makes for a more worthwhile jaunt.

By Jamie Ervin
Jan 21, 2013

Y'all put this up in June? That's pretty amazing.