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The Dry Wall
Routes Sorted
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Can't Say S 
Crazy Train, The S 
Graffiti Patient S 
Grushenka S 
Its Right to be Frank S 
JJ Memorial S 
Left Be Frank S 
Little Red Rooster S 
Lowe Route, The S 
Pit, The S 
Pocket Full of Trundles S 
Precious, The S 
Something Must Break S 
Stop that Terrain S 
Way Hammered S 
Wicked Bender S 

The Crazy Train 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
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Page Views: 1,019
Submitted By: Tosh Peters on Jun 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

one of the shorter routes

Location 

first route on the left on the main wall. Route A in the photo topo

Protection 

hanging draws


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By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 26, 2009

This is the farthest left "cave" route. It begins out the left side of the low cave with decent high holds, it climbs more or less straight up, skirting the right side of the small roof about thirty feet up, then traversing left a bit on some nice pockets, and it finishes at its own chains below Wicked Bender/JJ Memorials chains. The crux feels like a 3 move V6 right off the ground, with more good bouldery sections above. V6-V3-V4-V4. Feels pretty fair at the grade to me, and I think it is an excellent choice for someones first power-endurance 13a.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Sep 15, 2009

I think it has its own chains. Feels a ton shorter than Wicked Bender.
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 13, 2011

The jug immediately after the boulder problem start, up and left, broke off in early August 2011. It really doesn't impact the grade in my opinion.
By DTM
Sep 9, 2011

Could be a little soft for 13a. Hard opening moves to more mellow climbng up top. pretty short.
By user id
May 21, 2013

Thats one killer description!
Thanks for applying yourself Tosh.
By bheller
From: SL UT
May 1, 2014

There is evidence of freshly chipped holds at the start of this route. The top sides above some sloping cobbles have been enhanced to make the edges deeper. Stop it! Yes, the start is hard, and perhaps impossible if you are short. Winch start it if you have to! Boulder problem start begins with good holds for the left and right hands at the lip and your feet under the roof on the high shelves. Next comes a big, powerful move with the right hand to latch the back and left side of a distant oval cobble (3 feet away). The newly chipped holds are to the left of the starting holds. Stop it!