Type: | Boulder, 18 ft (5 m) |
FA: | Tony Disanto |
Page Views: | 3,066 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | rdlennon on Nov 5, 2008 |
Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
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Description
This difficult testpiece ascends the left side of a wavy, overhanging prow. Many climbers work this, few send. However, any time spend trying it is a reward, as it is a very smooth, challenging line.
Sit start on low edges. Move up a small bulge at the base of the prow using sidepull crimps and the arete. Once good feet are established, slap up the arete. Move the right hand out to a sidepull pinch. Slap left again and shift feet up until it is possible to bring the left hand way up to a crimp on the face. With difficulty, move right across the face under the prow until it is possible to grab the large slopey jug at the prow's tip. Top out over the right arete.
The block to the left is off. Apparently, the problem using the block all the way up is 'The Spanking' V7.
Video of the problem can be seen here.
Sit start on low edges. Move up a small bulge at the base of the prow using sidepull crimps and the arete. Once good feet are established, slap up the arete. Move the right hand out to a sidepull pinch. Slap left again and shift feet up until it is possible to bring the left hand way up to a crimp on the face. With difficulty, move right across the face under the prow until it is possible to grab the large slopey jug at the prow's tip. Top out over the right arete.
The block to the left is off. Apparently, the problem using the block all the way up is 'The Spanking' V7.
Video of the problem can be seen here.
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