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This difficult testpiece ascends the left side of a wavy, overhanging prow. Many climbers work this, few send. However, any time spend trying it is a reward, as it is a very smooth, challenging line. .
Sit start on low edges. Move up a small bulge at the base of the prow using sidepull crimps and the arete. Once good feet are established, slap up the arete. Move the right hand out to a sidepull pinch. Slap left again and shift feet up until it is possible to bring the left hand way up to a crimp on the face. With difficulty, move right across the face under the prow until it is possible to grab the large slopey jug at the prow's tip. Top out over the right arete.
The block to the left is off. Apparently, the problem using the block all the way up is 'The Spanking' V7.
Video of the problem can be seen here
This problem is the centerpiece of the Cranking Area and is on the last major boulder from the parking area. Impossible-to-miss prow. Easily downclimb the back of the boulder.
Many pads. The landing is flat, but the problem is high and, at the end, overhangs another boulder.
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 5, 2009
It would be interesting to find out who did the first ascent, but due to the nature of the PA bouldering scene in the past, I think it would be difficult.
Aug 25, 2012
FA was done by Tony Disanto