The Cranking  V9

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Type:  Boulder, 18 feet Consensus:  V9 [details] FA:  Tony Disanto Submitted By:  rdlennon on Nov 5, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Drew cranking

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Description 

This difficult testpiece ascends the left side of a wavy, overhanging prow. Many climbers work this, few send. However, any time spend trying it is a reward, as it is a very smooth, challenging line.

Sit start on low edges. Move up a small bulge at the base of the prow using sidepull crimps and the arete. Once good feet are established, slap up the arete. Move the right hand out to a sidepull pinch. Slap left again and shift feet up until it is possible to bring the left hand way up to a crimp on the face. With difficulty, move right across the face under the prow until it is possible to grab the large slopey jug at the prow's tip. Top out over the right arete.

The block to the left is off. Apparently, the problem using the block all the way up is 'The Spanking' V7.

Video of the problem can be seen here

Location 

This problem is the centerpiece of the Cranking Area and is on the last major boulder from the parking area. Impossible-to-miss prow. Easily downclimb the back of the boulder.

Protection 

Many pads. The landing is flat, but the problem is high and, at the end, overhangs another boulder.