Type: Boulder, 18 ft (5 m)
FA: Tony Disanto
Page Views: 3,066 total · 16/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Nov 5, 2008
Admins: Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This difficult testpiece ascends the left side of a wavy, overhanging prow. Many climbers work this, few send. However, any time spend trying it is a reward, as it is a very smooth, challenging line.

Sit start on low edges. Move up a small bulge at the base of the prow using sidepull crimps and the arete. Once good feet are established, slap up the arete. Move the right hand out to a sidepull pinch. Slap left again and shift feet up until it is possible to bring the left hand way up to a crimp on the face. With difficulty, move right across the face under the prow until it is possible to grab the large slopey jug at the prow's tip. Top out over the right arete.

The block to the left is off. Apparently, the problem using the block all the way up is 'The Spanking' V7.

Video of the problem can be seen here.

Location Suggest change

This problem is the centerpiece of the Cranking Area and is on the last major boulder from the parking area. Impossible-to-miss prow. Easily downclimb the back of the boulder.

Protection Suggest change

Many pads. The landing is flat, but the problem is high and, at the end, overhangs another boulder.

Photos

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