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Carderock
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Beginner's Crack 
Beginner's Face 
Biceps 
Billy Goat Boulder 
Buckets of blood (overhang) 
Buckets of Blood Arete 
Bulge, The 
Bump, The 
Butterfly 
Chris's Goat 
Copycat 
Crack, The 
Cripple's Crack 
Cripple's Face 
Crippling Paralysis 
Crystal Ship 
Desperation 
Diamond, The 
Dream Direct, The 
Dream, The 
Easy Layback 
Eight Ball 
Elsie's 
Elsie's Arete 
Elsie's Other 
Fingernail 
Flake, The 
Flutterby 
Friction Layback 
Golden Staircase 
Green Bucket 
Hades Heights Girdle Traverse 
Herbie's Horror 
Herbie's Left 
Incipient 
Iron Cross 
Jam Crack 
Jan's Face 
Kindergarten 
Left Edge of Jane's Face 
Mad Dog 
Merv's Nerve 
Norris's Nipple 
Nose, The 
Nubbin (Nubble) Face 
Outlook Rock Boulder 
Pre-Kindergarten Boulder 
Ronnie's Leap 
Serenity Syndrome 
Shipley's 
Silver Spot 
Spider Walk 
Sterling's Crack 
Sterling's Double Cracks 
Swayback Layback 
Tea and Scrumpet 
Top Roping at Carderock with Tots 
Triple A 
Trudie's Terror 
Yellow Jacket 
Zig Zag 
Unsorted Routes:

The Crack 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 495
Submitted By: steitz on Oct 12, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: two pics of the crack spliced together

Description 

This is a great leadable climb. Don't be fooled by that 5.3 rating though, due to heavy traffic the holds are all polished and slick as marbles.

According to the guidebook, the first part of the climb you should head up the face climb to the left of the crack, then move into the crack once you're on the easier ground.

If you head right up the crack though, it is definitely quite challenging, and feels more like 5.8ish for the first few moves till you're up it.

Enjoy the harder start, then scamper up the low angle ramp to the vertical exit. Good fun.


Location 

Hades Heights, in the crack upstream from nubble face.


Protection 

Nuts.



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By Timmamok
From: Durango, CO
Feb 24, 2012

Isn't this called "Golden Staircase"? I don't know what the guide book says(and the Horst guide is pretty so so if I recall correctly - check the old Carderock book) but just go up the crack. hard for 5.3 - good old school rating and 5.8ish is right on for the first move or so. Fun solo.

By Wannabe
Mar 2, 2012

Timmamok,
My understanding is that Golden Staircase uses the face to the left of the crack. The "grain" of the rock changes a couple times in a short distance up there and its a great climb-- just left of this crack.