Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Carderock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beginner's Crack TR 
Beginner's Face TR 
Biceps TR 
Billy Goat Boulder 
Buckets of blood (overhang) 
Buckets of Blood Arete TR 
Bulge, The TR 
Bump, The TR 
Butterfly TR 
Chris's Goat TR 
Copycat TR 
Crack, The T,TR 
Cripple's Crack TR 
Cripple's Face TR 
Crippling Paralysis TR 
Crystal Ship TR 
Desperation TR 
Diamond, The T,TR 
Dream Direct, The TR 
Dream, The TR 
Easy Layback TR 
Eight Ball TR 
Elsie's TR 
Elsie's Arete TR 
Elsie's Other TR 
Fingernail TR 
Flake, The TR 
Flutterby TR 
Friction Layback TR 
Golden Staircase TR 
Green Bucket TR 
Hades Heights Girdle Traverse T 
Herbie's Horror TR 
Herbie's Left TR 
Incipient TR 
Iron Cross TR 
Jam Crack TR 
Jan's Face TR 
Kindergarten TR 
Left Edge of Jane's Face TR 
Mad Dog TR 
Merv's Nerve TR 
Norris's Nipple T,TR 
Nose, The TR 
Nubbin (Nubble) Face TR 
Outlook Rock Boulder 
Pre-Kindergarten Boulder T 
Rack, The T,TR 
Ronnie's Leap TR 
Serenity Syndrome TR 
Shipley's TR 
Silver Spot TR 
Spider Walk TR 
Sterling's Crack TR 
Sterling's Double Cracks TR 
Swayback Layback TR 
Tea and Scrumpet 
Top Roping at Carderock with Tots TR 
Triple A TR 
Trudie's Terror TR 
Yellow Jacket TR 
Zig Zag TR 
Unsorted Routes:

The Crack 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 593
Submitted By: steitz on Oct 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: two pics of the crack spliced together

Description 

This is a great leadable climb. Don't be fooled by that 5.3 rating though, due to heavy traffic the holds are all polished and slick as marbles.

According to the guidebook, the first part of the climb you should head up the face climb to the left of the crack, then move into the crack once you're on the easier ground.

If you head right up the crack though, it is definitely quite challenging, and feels more like 5.8ish for the first few moves till you're up it.

Enjoy the harder start, then scamper up the low angle ramp to the vertical exit. Good fun.


Location 

Hades Heights, in the crack upstream from nubble face.


Protection 

Nuts.



Comments on The Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Timmamok
From: Durango, CO
Feb 24, 2012

Isn't this called "Golden Staircase"? I don't know what the guide book says(and the Horst guide is pretty so so if I recall correctly - check the old Carderock book) but just go up the crack. hard for 5.3 - good old school rating and 5.8ish is right on for the first move or so. Fun solo.

By Wannabe
Mar 2, 2012

Timmamok,
My understanding is that Golden Staircase uses the face to the left of the crack. The "grain" of the rock changes a couple times in a short distance up there and its a great climb-- just left of this crack.