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 ADVANCED
Foothill Crag ("The Foot")
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Big Bolts T,TR 
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Chummin' for Splatter S 
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Crack, The T 
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I Love L.A. S 
Magic Feather S 
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Ruthless Poodles S,TR 
Sob Story T 
Teetering TR 

The Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Yvon Chouinard, early 1970s
Page Views: 996
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006

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Erica nears the top of the Crack at Foothill Crag,...

Description 

A few tricky moves come right off the deck. Ask for a careful spot from your belayer. Then, an easy wide crack with good pro leads to a ledge with a bush.

Place gear high as leaving this ledge and the bush is the crux of the route (perhaps 5.7). Look for face holds on either side of the crack.

Steep crack and face climbing (5.4) with good pro take you to the top of the route. Look for the fixed anchor immediately atop the crack on the left. Be very suspicious of the two older bolts in the summit boulder.


Protection 

Gear from small (#1 TCU) to 3.5". You might want to double up on medium-sized gear (1/2"-1"). The crux is protected by a solid 2" cam. New fixed anchors atop the crack: two 1/2" Rawl-style five piece expansion bolts (2006).



Photos of The Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Wesley Fienup (at 4 years old in this picture) climbs the wide crack that makes up the first half of The Crack, at the Foot in Ojai.
Wesley Fienup (at 4 years old in this picture) cli...
Comments on The Crack Add Comment
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By Mark Fletcher
Jan 12, 2014

The bush mentioned above is gone. I suggest bringing cams and nuts from less than 1/2" to 4.5". An outstanding climb that protects well, except for the very beginning. There are some mandatory hand jams, but otherwise look for hand holds to the right and left to complement the crack. Very fun!