The Crack of Dawn
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Gym Crack aka The Crack of Dawn (I think).
To find this route, read the directions given in the route titled "Pinhead". From Pinhead, hike approximately 100 yards to the north and locate a HUGE roof about 60 feet off the deck. To the left of this lies the gorgeous lines of "The Gym Arete" (please see Richard Wright's entry for this route) and "The Crack of Dawn". The Crack of Dawn is probably the most striking crack line I have seen at Shelf. We are talking BEAUTIFUL!!
The Van Horn book gives this line 10b. The old select 200 book gives a rating of 11b, which is a bit far fetched. Purists might have a kiniption about seeing a crack like this bolted. However, I am going to stick to the facts on this one (please join me in leaving this subject untouched as it could easily explode into terrabytes of discussion).
The facts are as follows:
Start up on funky, hollowed, pockety rock to a high first clip (red home made hanger). Get ready to crank. Jam from fingers to hands and maybe even a fist or two, and heck, even throw in a lieback or two just for kicks. Follow this recipe for about 4 bolts. Stir in a little finger crack/ face edging for about 3 bolts to the anchors. A very tasty route.
This could probably be a good trad lead for a sport climber who is learning to place gear. No brainer bomber gear and bolts for backup.
8 bolts and anchors.
Frankie on The Crack of Dawn.
Photo: Andrew Doll.
Crack of Dawn.
|Comments on The Crack of Dawn
|By Anonymous Coward|
Oct 23, 2001
Bob and Carrie Robertson are responsible for this route. There only reason I know this is the homemade hangers on the route. That is their trademark and every route with these hangers on them should be attributed to Bob and Carrie.
|By Rick Thompson|
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jan 31, 2002
AC - I think you need to do a little homework here before you start suggesting that every route with home made (I prefer to call them "Homer-Made") was put up by Bob & Carrie. Home made hangers were used by nearly every new route activist at Shelf Road in the 80s. In fact, they were commonly used at many climbing around the country. That's the way it was back then! Cold shuts were also commonly used as bolt hangers. Frankly, the high quality gear that we see on many of "today's routes" simply wasn't so readily available 10-15 years ago. While you may be right that Bob did this one, a great number of other routes equipped with these were done by others.
Why don't you take a moment to actually log on with your real name - no need to be a faceless corward.
|By Bob Robertson|
Feb 27, 2002
This route was done by Richard Asher and myself on natural pro. Carrie and I went back, recleaned the crack, and bolted it. We then went back a second time and changed the hangers. We think it's one of the best 10s we have done at Shelf.
|By Peter Beal|
From: Boulder Colorado
Mar 19, 2002
I also think this route is one of the finest lines at Shelf and fact that it's bolted doesn't detract from this. In fact if I had to use natural gear, I'd probably put in a lot more pieces than the number of bolts. There's a spot where the crack goes a little wide and the last bolt is well below your feet, not to mention the chossy opening section where a broken hold could send you on a 15-20' digger. So it's not exactly overbolted.
|By Erik L Ahrn_|
Nov 17, 2003
This route deserves three stars!
|By richard magill|
Nov 18, 2003
Three stars for a Shelf Road bolted crack?
Some folks in Boulder are going to lose their lunch when they see that.
|By Bill Ballace|
Feb 3, 2006
Shelf is a designated sport area. I'm not going to bring my gear here, so the fact that this crack is bolted doesn't really distract from its greatness.
Apr 30, 2007
This route could go on gear, but I wouldn't want to take a whip on it. The rock is a bit chossy as is most of Shelf. Great line though and a perfect spot to get warmed up for the stout classics that surround it. Great for the grade 5.10 for sure. Super fun!!!!!!!!!
From: Front Range, CO
Sep 5, 2010
Though actually there are 8 bolts + anchors instead of the advertised 6.
|By Jessica Pemble|
From: Denver, CO
Nov 24, 2011
The final push to the anchors really makes you think. Sick route!
|By William Mondragon|
From: Del Norte Colorado
Feb 23, 2012
Felt pretty hard at .10, but whatever I will play along. Fun climbing.
|By Zane Dordai|
Nov 29, 2012
This climb is incredible. Perfect lieback movement if you choose not to jam. Excellent thoughtful crux as well. Some holds were loose.... I would absolutely not trust gear in this rock. Thank you to whoever bolted this and made it accessible to everyone!