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The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)

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Ninja Turtle Crack TR 
Pull My Finger TR 
Revolution Whenever TR 
Ring of Fire T 
Route 4 T,TR 
Route 8 TR 
Shamuvin' TR 
Slim Pickens TR 
True Grit T 

The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)  


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Location: 35.7913, -106.2082 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,130
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Jul 16, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Estante Edge right (south) side.

These are photos...

Description 

This is a 45 foot tall south-facing basalt cliff with 25 traditional and toprope routes. The routes tend to be on the short side, but are extremely high quality. Most follow crack systems, though there are a few face routes worth doing. As far as I know, bolted routes are not allowed here, as topropes are fairly easy to set on the bench above the cliff, and many of the routes can be led with clean gear. This area has the largest concentration of hard crack climbs in White Rock.

Getting There 

From NM state road 4, turn southeast on Monterey S. Follow this for.7 miles until you come to Potrillo road. Turn right on Potrillo and continue for .8 miles until you come to Estante road. Take another right and follow the road back until you come to a pullout on the right side of the road (.3 miles), just past a fire hydrant ( this hydrant is on the right side of the road as you approach, don't be fooled by an earlier hydrant on the left). Park here. Follow the obvious trail south until it splits, and follow the left branch. After passing a sign instructing you not to "disturb rocks", you will be at the canyon rim. Walk left for 25 yards and scramble down the gully. Walk north along the base of the cliffs (past the Big Enchilada's bolted routes) for approximately 250 yards and you are at the Crack House. DO NOT approach this area from above. It is necessary to cross private land to do so, which is a no-no. When setting up topropes, use the gully on the far right end of the crag and try to stay on the lower bench area as much as possible.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.1 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',8],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)
The huge roof is Ring of Fire.

Ring of Fire 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : The Crack House (aka Estant...
This is perhaps the best route at the cliff, and may be the best hard crack climb in White Rock. Climb some thin face and crack moves for 20 feet to a 10 foot roof split by a hand/finger crack. Powerful moves lead out of the lip, then it eases up to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of The Crack House (aka Estante Edge) Slideshow Add Photo
Estante Edge right (north) side. <br /> <br />These are photos of photos (no scanner available to me) from the old LA rock guide that I worked on in college. Route numbers may or may not correspond to routes on the site, you'll have to take everything here with a grain of salt.
BETA PHOTO: Estante Edge right (north) side.

These are photos...

Comments on The Crack House (aka Estante Edge) Add Comment
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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 16, 2008
FYI this area is known as Estante Edge in Marc Beverly's "Jemez Rock" book.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 15, 2009
The "do not disturb the rocks" sign is no longer there...but the signpost is.
By Wa3lt
Mar 21, 2009
Mick Shein, Theo Takeda, Alisa Green, and I did most of the FAs here. We led some of them, we TR'd most. I can't remember which routes fall into which category, though. For what it's worth, this is the FA party's approval (assuming the bolting agreement allows it) to add anchor bolts and protection bolts as folks see fit. Bolted TR anchors would be a huge plus here - the routes are *really* good, but the anchoring situation kinda sucks.
By Wa3lt
Mar 23, 2009
Hey George -

No problem. Sadly, when I was doing my guide, digital cameras (well, at least ones that I could afford) didn't exist, so a lot of the photography is pretty lousy. It's enough to find the routes, though, I think. Someone could easily snap a few digital photos at the crag and replace these with better ones.