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Hawk-Eagle Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Body Lice 
Bold Finger 
Bowling Alley 
Brother Jug 
Central Park 
Cinch Crack 
Comeback Arete, The 
Crab, The 
Cracker Jack 
Dead Left 
Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) 
Die Heeda Rule 
Emergency Brake 
Grim Reaper 
Grubble Gully 
Hangman, The 
Heart of Gold 
I've Been Sick 
January Playmate 
January Rush 
Larch, The 
Lips Like Sugar 
Low Profile 
Nails to Nowhere 
Nobody's Home 
Pepe le Peu 
Peter's Out 
Peters Out - Roof Variation 
Prime Time Climb 
Resisting Arete 
Roof's Way 
Rupee Dog Route 
Rush Buick 
Russian Arete 
Self Abuse 
Shallow Grave 
Siberian Khatru 
Squeamish, The 
Stay Hungry 
Uninspiring Wall 
Walk About 
Werner Brothers' Roof 
You'll Poke Your Eye Out 

The Crab 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Jim Stuberg, solo, 1981
Page Views: 112
Submitted By: Joe Brannan on Oct 25, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Red - The Crab, 5.6.
Blue - Body Lice, 5.9.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This area is maybe 100 yards above the boulder move on the standard Hawk Eagle Ridge approach. The slab left of The Crab should be obvious after passing the steeper roof routes low on the ridge. The base shows slight wear from climber activity. Descend a class 4 gully 40 feet up the ridge line.


Ascend the obvious corner on the right side of a large slab from a good belay platform. Follow cracks and ledges with good gear opportunities (cleaning may be necessary) up to a roof with a small chock-stone. Note the fragile nature of the rock over your head. I gave this a bomb rating as I suspect this roof could fail easily crushing climber and belayer! Make a committing move out left and find a jug to haul on just within reach. A large pine tree is an option for anchor or a top rope can be set using boulders to climb the poorly protected slab routes next door.


Good cracks are filled with needles and dirt down low. Cleaner climbing in the middle, scary loose rock at the roof. Standard light rack.

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