Michelle leading Bat Wings And Blood (5.10a) at Th...
Hidden in the hills northwest of Fawnskin, and sitting on a forested ridge, is The Coven, a small collection of granite formations with sweeping vistas of Big Bear Lake, The San Gabriel Mountains and the surrounding forest.
There are about 50+ routes established here, and most are on clean, high-quality rock similar to that found at the nearby Holcomb Valley Pinnacles. The routes here tend to be on the shorter side but are highly enjoyable.
No camping is available at the crag but lots of possibilites exist up and down the road just a short distance in either direction. Please check with the Forest Service before heading out to see what fire restrictions are in effect.
From the town of Fawnskin drive north on Rim Of The World Drive (3N14) for 1.3 miles and then make a left onto Forest Road 2N13; note that the pavement ends approximately 0.5 miles from town and turns into a graded but somewhat washboarded dirt road.
Continue west on 2N13 for roughly 2.0 miles until meeting the juncture of 2N13c, which leads to the Butler Peak Fire Lookout, and then continue another short distance (0.15 miles or so) to an intersection with 2N68 and make a right (heading slightly uphill). Continue along 2N68 for 0.2 miles to reach a parking area located at a hairpin turn in the road; the parking area has room for about 5-6 vehicles max.
The trail to The Coven leads north from the apex of the hairpin turn in the road and crests a small rise before the crag comes into view. From the viewpoint the trail heads downhill, crosses a seasonal stream and then switchbacks back uphill to it The Coven at the base of the Dragonlance Wall. Plan on about 10 minutes for the approach from the parking area.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Coven:
This route is located 15' right of Dragonlance and actually starts on a narrow north-facing wall next to a small pine tree. Clip a pointless bolt, boulder out the crux, and then clip a second bolt (looking at a grounder) before mantling onto a ledge. Clip another bolt from the ledge and then pull interesting moves (looking at a ledge fall - watch those ankles) onto a vertical headwall past one more bolt and anchors on a ledge. This is actually a fun route, but the poor bolting detracts from t...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
I tried to head to the coven a week ago (23 June 2012) and the roads to get there (2N13 and 2N68) had closed, locked gates blocking them. The gate blocking 2N68 had a sign that said closed for winter conditions. Just curious if anyone knows when they are supposed to open these gates.