The Cougar Whisperer  5.10b

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Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 99 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Mike Carrington Submitted By:  Mike Lane on Aug 13, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mike Carrington gets the first lead.

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Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5280647.pdf. For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is the 5th route from the left on the main wall. First 40' is 5.2 slab, but then you get a slightly tricky roof pull (.10b). That is followed by a 10' fist crack, then some 5.9 stuff to the anchors. If your belayer stands on the dirt and lowers you all the way, you'll use 100% of a 60m rope, so be careful. The slab is low angle here though, so an accident would mostly be hilarious for whoever saw it.

Eventually this line will get another pitch or 2 to go over the orange headwall up top.

Location 

5th route down from the North on the main face.

Protection 

9 bolts plus clips for the chains. You could bring along one 3" piece of gear for the short crack, or just clip the bolt. There was not enough of the crack to warrant a mixed line.