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> Mt Lemmon (Sant…
> Mt Lemmon (Cata…
> 8 - Summit Crags
> Rappel Rock
> S Face
The Corner
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 7
votes
Routes in South Face
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Girdle Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Baradur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Helm's Deep T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Storm Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Charadras T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Rotissima Bueno T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Other Way, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Main Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not So Easy Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Voodoo Child (direct start) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Voodoo Child T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Magic Woman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Quacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Quick Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chiboni T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bender-Axen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Corner, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,497 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | joe E lee on Jul 12, 2009 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
Climb an easy slab with discontinuous cracks up and then right to reach the left facing open dihedral capped by a roof. The start of the dihedral is the business. After the roof, move upwards to hit the roof crack and then traverse left. The original route continues upward still but we escaped further left to get on Pine Tree Ledge.
Addendum: you can also start on the slab directly below the corner. There is no protection but the climbing is pretty secure. Bout 5.7/5.8ish I think.
Addendum: you can also start on the slab directly below the corner. There is no protection but the climbing is pretty secure. Bout 5.7/5.8ish I think.
Location
As you hike down the east side of Rappel Rock, near the toe, you'll see a right facing corner that transitions into a wide crack. To the right of the wide crack, you can see a pretty left facing open corner. Start by a small tree at the base. You want to approach the corner from the left.
Protection
Bring your standard rack. There are two old bolts. Don't worry. Since the leader mustn't fall.
!!! Protect your second on the traverse. And if you decide to traverse further to Pine Tree Ledge, you won't be able to protect the moves down and left for the second. A fall for the second will be bad. But the climbing isn't that hard. Just make sure the second has a cool head.
!!! Protect your second on the traverse. And if you decide to traverse further to Pine Tree Ledge, you won't be able to protect the moves down and left for the second. A fall for the second will be bad. But the climbing isn't that hard. Just make sure the second has a cool head.
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