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The Cookie Cliff
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The Cookie-Right 

5.9

   
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 170 feet
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
FA: Royal Robbins and Loyd Price, 2/68.
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

To the right of the center route. Climb the short thin crack in the left-facing corner to a ledge. Continue climbing up a sweet chimney to a large ledge and belay. Move out to the edge of the chimney, then continue up an awesome chimney to the top of a giant flake with slings. Follow 5.9 hands to the top of The Cookie.


Protection 

Pro to 2.5".



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By Tevis Blom
Apr 3, 2008

My first real gear lead, of course I was sandbagged into it, there's really not that much pro at all, just a bunch of full body chimneying. Be ready for 20ft.+ of chimneying before getting pro. This happens about 3 times. Bring a few cams, leave the hexs at home! This route is very old school, bring the cajones.

By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Jun 5, 2009
rating: 5.9+ R

I agree with the gentleman above. The 2nd pitch is the truly run out pitch. the chimney goes for a solid 25ft of no pro and very physical chimney moves. Cojones and gumption definitely needed!

By Xander! Wyckoff
From: Durango, CO
Apr 13, 2011

NEVER leave your hexes at home.

By Sayfe
From: Scottsdale, az
Apr 19, 2012
rating: 5.9

Classic crack, have done it few times in 80s and 92.