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 ADVANCED
The Cookie Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock T,TR 
America's Cup T 
Anathema T 
Beverly's Tower T 
Butterballs T 
Butterfingers T 
Catchy T 
Catchy Corner T 
Chicken Delight TR 
Cleft, The T 
Cookie Left Side T 
Cookie Monster S 
Cookie-Center, The T 
Cookie-Right, The T 
Crack-a-Go-Go T 
Dynamite Crack 
Elevator Shaft, The T 
Enema, The T 
Enigma, The T 
Hardd T 
Jardine's Hand T 
Meat Grinder T 
Outer Limits T 
Pringles S 
Red Zinger T 
Renegade aka The Stigma, The T 
Twilight Zone T 
Twinkie T 
Vendetta T 
Waverly Wafer T 
Wheat Thin T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Cookie Cliff  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.7184, -119.7187 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 141,334
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 23, 2006
Forecast:
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Werner Braun on "Meat Grinder".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

The Cookie is a classic Yosemite crack area. It contains some of the world's best crack climbs.
"Outer Limits", "Meat Grinder", "Red Zinger", "Butterfingers", "Wheat Thin", "Waverly Wafer" and "Crack-A-Go-Go" are a few of the classics found in this area.

Getting There 

This cliff is about 1/2 mile down the canyon from the Cascade Creek bridge.
Park in a pullout on the river side of the road. The approach is obvious.

Climbing Season


31 Total Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',5],['5.10',11],['5.11',10],['5.12',1],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Cookie Cliff:
The Elevator Shaft   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   
Beverly's Tower   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Meat Grinder   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Vendetta   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 350'   
Wheat Thin   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Outer Limits   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Waverly Wafer   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Twilight Zone   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Catchy   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Catchy Corner   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Butterfingers   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Jardine's Hand   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 115'   
Aftershock   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Enema   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Hardd   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Butterballs   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Crack-a-Go-Go   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   
Red Zinger   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
America's Cup   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Cookie Monster   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in The Cookie Cliff

Featured Route For The Cookie Cliff
Doing it on gear is the way to go and it isnt runout at all

Cookie Monster 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : The Cookie Cliff
Once a sketchy 5.13 gear-tinkering single-pitch pumpfest, now a fully bolted 2 pitch sport route...Like so many older routes (Heinous Cling at Smith Rock comes to mind) that were mixed gear and bolts, the Cookie Monster is now a clip up.Rarely done, the continuous and steep "second" (5.13) pitch of black rock, golden knobs and tiny, sharp crimps looms above the overhanging crescent-like seam of the fun and very chalked first pitch. Getting to the popular 5.12- "first" pitch anchor is an increasi...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Cookie Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Merced in the spring. Just below The Cookie Cliff.
Merced in the spring. Just below The Cookie Cliff.
The Cookie cliff
The Cookie cliff
John Bacher, 1985.
John Bacher, 1985.
Poison Oak is very common in the Lower Merced Canyon. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Poison Oak is very common in the Lower Merced Cany...
Merced River below the Cookie and Elephant Rock. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Merced River below the Cookie and Elephant Rock.
P...
The Cookie from the road
The Cookie from the road
Looking at the cookie
Looking at the cookie

Comments on The Cookie Cliff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Osprey
From: ...
Feb 23, 2010
They say Hawaii is a winter wonderland. I don't think they have ever been to the Cookie!
By Stefano Prezioso
From: Detroit, MI
Jun 3, 2012
If someone has all the relevant information, adding Stigma (the 5.13 seam where the approach trail meets the wall) would be great. I just aided it today for practice and was surprised to see that it was missing from MP. I just don't know all the information to do a good job of adding the route, otherwise I would myself.