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The North Forty
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little Moore S 
Accident, The T 
Ace in the Hole S 
Action Hotdog S 
Adult Supervision S 
African Herbman S 
Around the Fur S 
Auntie Grandmother T 
Big Top S 
Brand New S 
Bulb, The S 
Caught in the Closet Again S 
Chica Bonita S 
Chica Bonito S 
Circus Freaks T 
Class clown T 
Clown Suit T 
Controversy, The S 
Corn Grinder S 
Cotton Candy S 
Count Chalkula S 
Cow Killer T 
Cows in the Mist S 
Crab Louse S 
Crimp Scampi S 
Dancing Bears T 
Dancing Outlaw S 
Dos Hermanos S 
Dreadlock Holiday T 
E-Kat S 
Earl's Revenge T 
Eighteen Inches S,TR 
Emmas's Got a Mullet S 
Faded Memory T 
Fat Hand S 
First Normal Form S 
Flashbacks T 
Frankenberry S 
Girth Hitch S 
Goldmember S 
Great Gracious Grant, The S 
Greatest Show on Earth, The S 
Green Goblin S 
Groove Tube T 
Groovy S 
Guide's Corner T 
Hangs a Little to the Left S 
Hardly Spot 'Er T 
Harry Butthole Pussy Potter S 
Harry Potter S 
Honorary Brave S 
Horny Goatweed S 
Hurricane, The S 
Ides of March, The S 
Jackhole S 
Jewell Always Smiles S 
Jewell Says  S 
Kids Stuff T 
Kurbcheck S 
Lamb Chops S 
Lampe Land S 
Lavender Eye S 
Leonid S 
Lion Tamer S 
Little Manly Man S 
Little Miss Giggles T 
Local Hebrew S 
Love Slave S 
Marek's Golden Way T 
Mclovin' It S 
Meck, Mecke, What's the Difference? S 
Mefloquine Dreams S 
Mine Mine Mine S 
Missing Rack T 
Molt S 
More Better S 
Mossy Revelations T 
Mr. Hanky S 
Narwhal T,TR 
Newton County Mentality S 
Ojos Locos S 
Owen's Best Buddy S 
Paul's Redemption S 
Perfect Hair Forever S 
Perfect Trifecta, The S 
Petrified S 
Piratas Putas  S 
Playing Hooky S 
Poetry in Goshen T 
Poison Ivy Route, The T 
Private Property S 
Pulp Fiction S 
Roman Says S 
Roman's Empire S 
Romaniac, The S 
Scrambled Eggs S 
Seaana Says S 
Season of the Storm S 
Serfs and Lords S 
Short Stack T 
Sin Nombre S 
Sin Nombre Moore S 
Slide Show T 
Smooth Criminal S 
Some Moore Better S 
Something for CiCi S 
Something for E-Kat S 
Something for Jewell S 
Something for Roman S 
Sonny Jim S 
Sonrisa Loca S 
Sons of the Soil S 
Sour Girl S 
Spam S 
Stiff-Neked Fools T,S 
Strongman S 
summer rain S 
Sundial S 
Sure Thing T 
Swiss Family Pancakes T 
the Elephant Man T 
Tongue and Groove T 
Too Short for the Short Bus S 
Towely S 
Towely 24HHH Variation S 
Trapeze Artist S 
Tres Equis S 
Tunnel Vision S 
Uncle Grandfather T 
Wanted Man T 
Webster's Part S 
Webster's Partner S 
Zeke's Didge Dance S 
Zeppelin T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Controversy 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,418
Submitted By: Elijah Flenner on Jun 11, 2007

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Shannon Chasteen pulling the bulge on The Controve...


Start up some overhanging rock then move out right to the arete. The route finishes at a two bolt anchor left of the arete.


The trail to the North Forty comes close to the cliff at an overhanging section which holds several 5.11 to 5.12 lines (Big Top etc.). The Controversy is right of these climbs and a little uphill, past a dihedral, and starts to the left of an arete.


Seven bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Photos of The Controversy Slideshow Add Photo
View looking out from the top of The Controversy.
View looking out from the top of The Controversy.

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By Eddy Daly
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 6, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Onsight 2005-12-26. Pretty solid 5.9 over the bulge. Then cruiser yet airy and fun. 5.8- is a bit of a sandbag.
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