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The Contortionist 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Scott Garso and Rick Thompson
Page Views: 1,127
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 18, 2007
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Below the crux

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Description 

Stacking hands sound like fun? How about knee jams and arm bars? Then this is the route for you.

Often Toproped.


Location 

Vertical crack to right of Reachers of Habit (5.11b)


Protection 

Loads of big gear, bring a big bro, or four.

If you approach this thinking there will be placements for your standard crack, you will be in X rated territory.



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By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 15, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I climbed it w/a handfull of #4 camalots. They were almost all tipped out and fairly useless except as psychological pro. Pretty interesting and fun for being so short.

By boo
Jul 20, 2009

Leading this is a lot of fun. Gear beta to follow. Don't read if you want a legit onsight!

You definitely need big gear. I used 2 (4.5)s, 1 (6) and 1 (4). Did a fair bit of leap frogging and bumping with the first 3 cams. A couple middle sized cams for the top. Great fun. Good intro to offwidth. Good place to practice the cam mgmt skills, too.