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Routes in The Old Settler
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Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow |
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Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow |
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West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | BC Mountaineering Club party - 1980 |
| Page Views: | 938 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Mar 17, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gates may be closed.
Details
Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.
Description
This route climbs the southwest rib on the east-central summit, following a prominent geologic contact between orange and black rock. The first half of the route is mid-5th class with many variations possible. The last 4 pitches are sustained in the 5.8/9 range and follow the crest of the narrowing rib through a series of steep to slightly overhanging walls with excellent holds, rock quality and protection.
Location
Begin immediately across the gully from the base of the West Buttress of the South Peak and about 30m right of the starts of Duck a L'orange and Black September.
From the summit, scramble west to the west-central summit and downclimb or rappel into the north-central col. Descend the 3rd class scrambling route ramp on the west face to talus below the face.
From the summit, scramble west to the west-central summit and downclimb or rappel into the north-central col. Descend the 3rd class scrambling route ramp on the west face to talus below the face.
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