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 ADVANCED
The Old Settler
Select Route:
Black September 
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) 
Complete Northwest Ridge 
Contact Zone, The 
Duck a L'Orange 
East Buttress of the South Peak 
Mars Western 
South to North Traverse 
Standard Route 
Totally Spurious 
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge 
West Buttress of the South Peak 
West Couloir 
West Face of the North Peak 

The Contact Zone 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: BC Mountaineering Club party - 1980
Season: summer and fall
Page Views: 89
Submitted By: Dru on Mar 17, 2009
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Description 

This route climbs the southwest rib on the east-central summit, following a prominent geologic contact between orange and black rock. The first half of the route is mid-5th class with many variations possible. The last 4 pitches are sustained in the 5.8/9 range and follow the crest of the narrowing rib through a series of steep to slightly overhanging walls with excellent holds, rock quality and protection.


Location 

Begin immediately across the gully from the base of the West Buttress of the South Peak and about 30m right of the starts of Duck a L'orange and Black September.

From the summit, scramble west to the west-central summit and downclimb or rappel into the north-central col. Descend the 3rd class scrambling route ramp on the west face to talus below the face.


Protection 

Full rack to 3".



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